I went for an awesome bike camping trip last weekend with a small but great group of folks from the Portland Hiking Meetup Group. We spent three days exploring the lower Deschutes River, soaking in the expansive views, and poking around some of the ancient farm buildings and railroad relics.
The route is a Rails to Trails project that runs from the state park near I-84 upstream to Macks Canyon. About 24 miles one way. The inspiration for the trip came largely from Retired Jerry's excellent trip reports and his great Field Guide entry, as well as Charley's great trip report from last year. Our group was led by Claudio (aka Yeti), and included David (aka fettster), a nice chap I'd not met before named Mark, and myself.
We left Portland around 10:30 Friday morning, stopped for an excellent lunch in The Dalles, and were on the trail by 2pm. We rode the single track that hugs the river's edge for the first two miles, then cut over to the actual railroad grade.
Here's Mark, David, and Claudio as we make a quick stop for pictures by the rock arch:
Before long we encountered the first of two old railroad cars:
A bit later we stopped at the more dilapidated second car:
April is really the perfect month for this trip as the weather is usually decent, the rafting season isn't yet under way, and the canyon is verdant and lush with spring grasses and other vegetation. Lots of gorgeous wildflowers too. In another month or two this place will be baking hot, crispy, and brown.
By late afternoon we were making camp at Fall Canyon Camp, also known as Operation Desert Snore:
Fall Canyon is just one of the many campsites along the Deschutes that were set up primarily for rafters. We didn't see anyone rafting the river this weekend though.
Afterwards we struck out to explore the eerie, yet strangely beautiful Harris homestead a mile down the pike:
Back in camp, Mark and David watch as a freight train rumbles by on the opposite shore:
Saturday morning we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, then left our camp set up as we headed upstream for more explorations.
Getting our gear together for the day's ride:
The view from camp that morning:
Beyond the Harris homestead were more old buildings to explore:
And then on to the old railroad water tower:
Continuing upstream:
A gorgeous butterfly along the way:
Around mile 20 we came to the end of the official bike trail. The path continues for several miles to Macks Canyon but it gets very rugged. There's six side canyons on that stretch that were once spanned by trestles. The trestles are gone now and the only way through each canyon is on scrambly foot paths. Claudio and Mark forged ahead through the first canyon with their bikes to see how feasible it might be to continue. After some discussion we decided the remaining few miles likely weren't worth the considerable effort, so we opted to end our upriver explorations here and have some lunch:
Mark and Claudio hefting their bikes back through the side canyon:
Back on the rideable stuff:
The skies had threatened to rain on us all day, but only managed to spit a little here or there. Then as we headed back toward camp the weather began to improve quite nicely:
When we got back to the water tower we decided to head up the nearby side canyon to see if we could find the remains of the old Mays homestead that Charley had mentioned in his trip report.
A look back at the water tower from the road up to Mays Canyon:
Along the way, Mark and Claudio spotted some deer, or possibly elk, on a distant hillside:
All we found at Mays Canyon were a few pieces of metal roofing and other bits of debris. Nothing resembling a cabin, or much evidence of the fire either. It's all very lush, green, and overgrown now. The area was simply gorgeous though, so we scrambled up an adjacent hillside in search of some views:
Heading back down:
Back at camp another freighter rolls by:
The evening was quite breezy and chilly. Later on Claudio and Mark hunted up some firewood for a very welcome fire.
David played his harmonica as we sat around the campfire:
With David's harmonica, the roaring campfire, and the rumbling freight trains, the evening took on a sort of folky - hobo - Woody Guthrie kind of atmosphere that was really fun. OK, granted, Woody didn't have spandex shorts or titanium cookware, but it's still fun to think about. As we reflected on the day's adventure we realized we hadn't seen any other people all day. And only a few the day before. Amazing considering how beautiful this area is.
Sunday morning dawned bright and sunny. The nice weather made it all the harder to saddle up and head back to the big city, but return we must.
On the road again, headed north:
The remains of an old trestle caught our attention:
The day was young with plenty of time left to explore, so we headed up the side road called Rattlesnake Grade for some views. Claudio and Mark motored up on their bikes. I didn't have the legs for that long, steep climb, so I hoofed it about halfway up. Got some nice views nonetheless:
Back on the main trail:
Near the end of our journey is a short, wet, paved section of roadbed with a "Caution Wet Floor" cone, the kind you see in the supermarket.
Yeah, I'm not making that up:
Lots more pictures here.
Great group and an awesome trip! Thanks guys, I can't wait to go back!
Gordon
Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
- sparklehorse
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Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Last edited by sparklehorse on February 21st, 2012, 11:38 am, edited 17 times in total.
- retired jerry
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Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
That is a nice area to explore
Your report is like being there again
I can't believe you went inside that building
Your report is like being there again
I can't believe you went inside that building
- anna in boots
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Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Me, neither! Claudio is loopy! But Oh, man, I didn't look at your photos, I drank them in. All that luscious, delectable SPACE and AIR and SKY! And the delicious freedom you had while you were in it. Man, if you could roll winter moonlight, cream cheese frosting, and Swedish Massage all into one drug and inject it directly into a vein, it wouldn't come close. Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous Trip Report, guys. And I'll forgive you for leaving out the washing-off-in-the-river scenes as long as you include them next time. Wink, wink.retired jerry wrote:I can't believe you went inside that building
anna in boots
Last edited by anna in boots on April 29th, 2010, 10:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- AlexanderSupertramp
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Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Fantastic report Gordon, and amazing pics! Thanks for sharing.
Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
How do you like that Rattlesnake Grade, huh? Took me about an hour to get up, and 15 minutes or less to get down.
Here's an idea for further exploration: you mentioned that beyond the end of the maintained road grade, the benefits were outweighed by the difficulties. However, if you wanted to make a long loop tour, it's possible to exit the canyon via Macks Canyon Road, then loop back around mostly on gravel roads. Basically one would follow the canyon rim back north, partly on Gordon Ridge Road, and then the main pavement would be a fast and fun descent of Fulton Canyon Road, back down to the state highway. I'm not sure, but I doubt there would be any place to camp above the canyon (is there some high BLM land?), so one would need to climb out and return to the canyon in one day. Would be a nice tour, no? It would certainly make it worth the portage required by the lack of bridges.
It's too bad I work weekends, because I can't really match up with other people's schedules. I would really have enjoyed the trip.
Here's an idea for further exploration: you mentioned that beyond the end of the maintained road grade, the benefits were outweighed by the difficulties. However, if you wanted to make a long loop tour, it's possible to exit the canyon via Macks Canyon Road, then loop back around mostly on gravel roads. Basically one would follow the canyon rim back north, partly on Gordon Ridge Road, and then the main pavement would be a fast and fun descent of Fulton Canyon Road, back down to the state highway. I'm not sure, but I doubt there would be any place to camp above the canyon (is there some high BLM land?), so one would need to climb out and return to the canyon in one day. Would be a nice tour, no? It would certainly make it worth the portage required by the lack of bridges.
It's too bad I work weekends, because I can't really match up with other people's schedules. I would really have enjoyed the trip.
Believe it or not, I barely ever ride a mountain bike.
- BrianEdwards
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Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Great photos and awesome report
Clackamas River Waterfall Project - 95 Documented, 18 to go.
Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Awsome pictures Gordon! My favorite is #18
Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Thanks, you really captured the beauty of the area.
Skip
Skip
Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Great report there Gordon, a full flavor fest. We were sure a stylin' group! Thanks for your work in getting the planning all put together. Things really worked out well, and the surprise "zero percent chance" rain made for some snug sleeping with the wind drying things up again by sunrise. Here are few more pictures:
We briefly crossed paths with this elusive and wiley coyote, and boy could he cover terrain in a hurry. We were lucky to get a few photos.
..and still the world's best!
Mark proves the stairs still work!
Warming up on day 2
Rock formation across the river from camp
The common mergansers were keeping busy, floating the current down river and flying up for additional passes.
Mark and Claudio porting around the first missing trestle
Beaver-tail bend near Snake-in-the-Box campground
Mark in our May's Canyon expedition
Off-trail exploration
Love this country!
Thanks again Gordon. It really turned out to be a great group. I'm already looking forward to another bike trip sometime.
-Fettster
We briefly crossed paths with this elusive and wiley coyote, and boy could he cover terrain in a hurry. We were lucky to get a few photos.
..and still the world's best!
Mark proves the stairs still work!
Warming up on day 2
Rock formation across the river from camp
The common mergansers were keeping busy, floating the current down river and flying up for additional passes.
Mark and Claudio porting around the first missing trestle
Beaver-tail bend near Snake-in-the-Box campground
Mark in our May's Canyon expedition
Off-trail exploration
Love this country!
Thanks again Gordon. It really turned out to be a great group. I'm already looking forward to another bike trip sometime.
-Fettster
Last edited by fettster on May 2nd, 2010, 8:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
- anna in boots
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Re: Deschutes River Bike Camping Trip, April 23-24-25
Great pics, David! That old trestle foundation looks like some sort of Mayan ruins at first glance. Love the shot with the dark clouds folding over the terrain and tower like a moisture burrito, also the lupine pic. And how cool is it to wake up to a dry morning instead of mist and dew all over everything? Love that area!
anna in boots
anna in boots
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