Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trailhead

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AAdamsPDX
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Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trailhead

Post by AAdamsPDX » September 16th, 2014, 9:40 pm

So, what is the expiration date for posting a trip report? A week? Ten days?

Beginning September 5, we headed up the Clackamas River Canyon towards the Breitenbush/PCT trailhead for our first-ever visit to Jefferson Park. We'd read "save this hike for September when the crowds start to thin out." Well, spoiler alert - if this is thinned out, I think I'll save the hike for October next year.

The road to the Breitenbush trailhead lived up to its reputation. For context, I'll say that we used to drive our 2000 Kia Sephia up to Elk Lake above Detroit, and that used to be my standard of a bad road. Well, no more. Our Forester did OK but I was a bit of a nervous wreck by the time we reached the trailhead. A few times I made my husband get out and scout the best route around a particularly large boulder so as to avoid 1) bottoming out or 2) scratching the car on surrounding brush. We managed to make it without either problem, so we must have done something right. We saw a passenger vehicle at the trailhead, so someone made it. But I wouldn't recommend that traverse without all wheel drive and a bit of clearance. Even then, I wouldn't recommend it if you care about your paint job overmuch.

By now you've gathered that I was the one driving, which explains why I have no photos of the drive up. I also have no photos of the trailhead - I've got to learn to start taking those for these reports. Suffice it to say that the trailhead parking is well signed (not to mention spacious!) and there are several routes from the parking area back to the trail.

We arrived at the trailhead late in the afternoon (early in the evening, actually) and decided to head on up, carrying enough water for a potential dry camp. The PCT is well graded and a fairly easy climb for the first few miles. We clearly hadn't read enough trip reports, however, as we were surprised when the trail fairly quickly entered a burn area. As usual, the burn area was not without its own beauty.
1-BurnAreaBeauty-2.JPG
We were soon looking back towards a burnt-over Pyramid Butte and Mount Hood.
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Our camp for the night, on a gravel bar a few hundred feet off the PCT, included a charming peek at Jefferson and front-row seats for a beautiful sunset and moonrise.
1-ParkRidgeMoonrise.jpg
Because we made a quick, dry camp on Friday evening, to allow time to enjoy said sunset and moonrise, our camp was also waterless. So Saturday morning we packed up quickly and hiked up to one of the beautiful tarns on the climb up Park Ridge, where we made our breakfast and morning hot drinks while enjoying the scenery.
2-BreakfastSpot.jpg
The scenery - and the trail - got more rugged from here. We haven't done a lot of high-elevation hiking, and were charmed by the rocky moonscape as we neared Park Ridge from the north. (All while dreading the same route in reverse the next day - descending loose rock isn't a picnic.) Can you spot Waldo in this photo? I had to include a human for scale, and since my husband was the only handy human - and wearing gray - I worked with what I had.
2-WheresWaldo.jpg
As we neared the top of the ridge, we looked back towards Hood, expecting the bright blue skies of the day before. Unfortunately, the wind from the night before (I didn't mention the wind?!) seemed to have blown in all the smoke from fires to the south. This was our view of the smoke starting to obscure the view.
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Our first view of Jefferson after topping Park Ridge was a tiny bit of a letdown, given all the smoke. Still beautiful, but hard not to imagine how much more beautiful it would be against a bright blue sky.
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The descent into Jefferson Park was a beautiful hike down a mostly gentle grade, though the loose rocks were a bit rough going for legs used to soft forest trails. We arrived at Russell Lake, took the last available designated campsite, probably around noon on Saturday, but who bothers to check watches in the woods? (Well, who besides my husband, who always has to know what time it is?!) We then took a short loop around the park to explore the other lakes. Again, beautiful but hard not to be disappointed by the hazy views.

And the people! Did I mention the hordes of college-aged folks? By the time we were rounding Scout Lake, I felt like I was at a city swimming pool. We passed something like 20 young people in one spot on the west side of that lake alone. Back at Russell Lake, the hordes were beginning to arrive in earnest. It appeared that people were hiking up the Whitewater trail, making their way past all the other lakes and realizing no designated spots were open, and arriving at our little haven hoping to find their home for the night. One group of six young people settled in about 50 feet from our tent.

I'm sure they were very nice young folks. They were also louder than we liked, at least at that close range, so we moved camp well back away from the lakes - per Forest Service websites, carefully researched in advance, camping is legal away from designated sites if one is at least 250 feet from one of the major lakes. It was a lovely little spot, though far from being out of earshot of our neighbors.
2-JeffParkCamp.jpg
We tried to be LNT by camping in a cluster of trees and not on the meadows. I'm not so sure the crowds who continued to arrive had any such options left. This spot NEEDS a permit system or it will be loved to death. I'm sure I'm not the first person to say so. I know permits are a pain, etc., but...wow.

OK, enough about the people for now. The smoke cleared a bit in time for sunset, yet still hung around enough to create some beautiful red glows over the mountain.
2-JeffParkSunset.jpg
You can take the girl out of the forest but you can't take the forest out of the girl. I am a tree lover at heart, more than a mountain lover. And the Jeff Park trees have character! I need to go back a few times, and create a series: The Trees of Jefferson Park. Here are a few preliminary entries:
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2-TreesOfJeffPark-3.jpg
2-TreesOfJeffPark-4.jpg
That night was memorable due to the nearby young people quite literally baying at the moon. (Yup.) As we commented to each other, they could be doing much worse things with their time. And they were young, and I can understand the call of the wild might make one feel like - responding in kind. Still. Quiet would have been preferable for us. Fortunately they left that off before too late and a reasonable quiet allowed for a good sleep the rest of the night.

Our return route was unremarkable and still more smoky - Mount Hood had disappeared completely. We found ourselves pretty grateful for all the cairns, though we'd made fun of them on the way up the ridge. They certainly made the route easier to follow on the way down. (And they are undoubtedly very valuable to PCT hikers who come through earlier in the season before most of the snow melts.)
3-CairnsGoneWild.jpg
One last look at Pyramid Butte as we entered the burn area and neared our car.
1-BurnAreaBeauty.jpg
So - I've got the Jeff Park bug. I want to return again. We timed it right for mosquitoes - we saw only two, though they both bit my husband. Next time we hope to time it right for people. Mid week? Most definitely. Later in September or early in October? You bet your boots.
"The world begins where the road ends." ~Eddie Vedder
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kepPNW
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by kepPNW » September 17th, 2014, 5:07 am

Baying at the moon? Heh, humanity indeed. :lol:

So fun reading this! We were just there on Sunday. (My first time actually getting down into the Park since 1974!) Not quite as many folks. Might've seen close to a dozen in a loop through around the lakes; most solo or in twos.

That last 4-5 miles of "road" is indeed a special place in Hell. We never bottomed out, either, but I was most concerned about puncturing a tire - some of those rocks sticking up just looked brutal!

Great report! Really intrigued by the "trees of" concept. There were a lot of cool ones down there (as you captured!), and I enjoyed the krummholz on the way back up the ridge, too. Wonderful place! :)
Karl
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retired jerry
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by retired jerry » September 17th, 2014, 6:01 am

great time of year for the mountains - bugs gone, snow gone, weather still good

Jefferson Park looks nice. I don't think I've ever been there. I need to rectify that

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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by Aimless » September 17th, 2014, 8:53 am

what is the expiration date for posting a trip report? A week? Ten days?

No expiration date. We even have a Time Travel forum where you can post a report about the hike you took 20 years ago! Sometimes in the dead of winter is it is nice to see a belated TR from the previous summer pop up on PH.org, especially if it has particularly nice photos and is well done. We all get a bit stir crazy in December and January.

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adamschneider
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by adamschneider » September 17th, 2014, 11:32 am

Last time I was in Jefferson Park was the Monday of Labor Day weekend in 2012, and there was almost NO ONE there. That was weird. The only possible explanation is that maybe people thought a nearby fire would make it smoky... but the wind was blowing from the west and it was perfectly clear.

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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by justpeachy » September 17th, 2014, 4:14 pm

What a great trip! Sorry about the smoke. That's the frustrating thing about September hiking; it's hard to get a really clear day because of haze and smoke.

As for your neighbors....good grief! :roll: Why are humans obsessed with making so much NOISE when they're outside? I encounter this all the time both car camping and backpacking and I'm dumbfounded by the people who go out into these beautiful places only to ruin the experience of others by being obnoxiously loud.
AAdamsPDX wrote:You can take the girl out of the forest but you can't take the forest out of the girl. I am a tree lover at heart, more than a mountain lover. And the Jeff Park trees have character!
Trees are slowly taking over the meadows at Jefferson park: http://archive.statesmanjournal.com/art ... ic-meadows

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kepPNW
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by kepPNW » September 17th, 2014, 4:26 pm

justpeachy wrote:
AAdamsPDX wrote:You can take the girl out of the forest but you can't take the forest out of the girl. I am a tree lover at heart, more than a mountain lover. And the Jeff Park trees have character!
Trees are slowly taking over the meadows at Jefferson park: http://archive.statesmanjournal.com/art ... ic-meadows
Fascinating! Last time I actually got down into the Park was July (or August?) 1974. Visiting there again a few days ago, I thought it was more tree-covered than I remembered, but figured it was time playing tricks on me. Glad to hear it wasn't just another "senior moment." :)
Karl
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Born2BBrad
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by Born2BBrad » September 17th, 2014, 4:32 pm

I agree that there should be a permit system in the Jefferson Park area, at least for overnight visits. I won't camp there anymore during the peak summer time. There are plenty of other places to go to get away from noisy, inconsiderate people.

When I went there with Matt and Karl (not kepPNW) in mid-August, there were tents all over the place, many in meadows where they were not supposed to be.

Still, it is beautiful there and I'm glad you enjoyed your time there.

Brad
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

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Paul2
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by Paul2 » September 17th, 2014, 8:02 pm

We were another of the first timers up at Jefferson Park on the September 5th weekend. It was so beautiful, but just like a city swimming pool as you mentioned. It is amazing how many people made their way up there. We showed up late afternoon Saturday and we must have taken your vacated Russel Lake designated campsite. We took the last one on the east side, I saw a group that had been nearby clear out. We were lucky not to get bothered by baying at the moon that night, we must not be as sensitive to noises of loud people! It was also amazing how many people were on the way in on Sunday as well, quite a few.
I've been wandering early and late, from New York City to the Golden Gate, and it don't look like I'll ever stop my wandering.
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Re: Oh, the humanity - Jefferson Park from Breitenbush trail

Post by mattisnotfrench » September 17th, 2014, 9:40 pm

It's such a popular place but everyone congregates at the three main lakes. Avoid those and you won't see even a fraction as many people.
Author of Extraordinary Oregon!, PDX Hiking 365, 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region, and Off the Beaten Trail. Website: www.offthebeatentrailpdx.com

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