Sawtooth and Bird Mountains

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K.Wagner
Posts: 652
Joined: June 2nd, 2013, 1:25 pm
Location: Vancouver, WA

Sawtooth and Bird Mountains

Post by K.Wagner » August 21st, 2014, 4:12 pm

This last Saturday, the 16th, I got the urge to head into the Indian Heaven area and bag two more peaks. It didn't take much map work to decide that Sawtooth Mountain and Bird Mountain would make a good pair.

So, I was off bright and early Saturday morning (8:00 qualifies doesn't it?). A pleasant drive out Hwy 14 to the Wind River Road, up over Old Man Pass then to the berry fields and the PCT trail head. Cars were parked everywhere, and there were several large Indian camps. Could only mean one thing: It's huckleberry season!

My wife takes really good care of me, and always asks me the important questions, such as: “Did you remember water?” “Do you have your GPS?” “Do you have the lunch I packed for you?” Then occasionally she will have a wife's premonition and serve me my breakfast coffee in my “DON'T DO STUPID STUFF Mug”.
DDSSM-S.jpg
Well, this particular morning she missed the mug, so this happened:
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I was just plain lucky that I ended up with one left and one right! I headed south on the super gentle PCT for 1 1/3 miles to the #107 trail (which I am pretty sure is the old PCT route). It's a very clean trail that climbs moderately through open forest for 1 mile then breaks out to an open slope.
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Had wonderful views to the west and north, like this view of Rainier looming over the Dark Divide.
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The summit outcrops of Sawtooth Mtn are directly above. The way trail up to the rocks was easy to find. Its steep, and moderately difficult in itself. Everything I had read described the summit route as “a class 3 scramble with exposure”. I started up the center knob, and they had exposure right, but the face was vertical enough, the footing and holds were small enough, and rock bad enough that it has to be properly rated as a 4+. I am frankly surprised that no one has gotten in trouble on this one, because it apparently does see a lot of novice traffic.

Once on top, looked around, and it only took a moment to realize that this knob wasn't the high point! The real high point was the next one north.
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So, descended back to the base and found a ledge that headed that direction.
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Once past that it was easy going for awhile, until I came to some big blocks across the ridge. Couldn't go around left, couldn't go around right. Had to use the gap in the middle. Then was confronted with “the Squeeze”. Had to drop the pack to make it through.
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(Big People need not apply!) Then came “the Gap”. There was this void about 4 feet across, with big exposure. I was able to move to the right a bit which narrowed the distance some, but it was still a long straddle from one side to the other. A couple of class 5 moves for sure. Sorry, no pics, couldn't imagine trying to set up the camera, start the timer and then rushing to get into position. The summit was easy in comparison, and it came complete with a summit register! (a short piece of white PVC pipe with a cap glued on one end, and the other end unglued) There was one name on the paper, Fay(e) Pullen, 2012. Does anybody know her? So, now there are 2 names on the paper. Great 360 degree views
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(That's Steamboat Mtn in the background)
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Once back down to the #107 trail, I continued south. I didn't have to go very far before it occurred to me that “almost no one uses this trail past the way trail” because while the section I walked up was very clean (and had no berries anywhere near the trail), this section had stuff growing in the tread and there were berries all over the place. As it switch-backed down the south slope, there were sections where erosion was a real problem. Once back into the trees, the brush was closing in on the trail. Soon I was back on the PCT headed south. In a mile, came to the #108 Cultus Creek trail that hops over the Bird Mtn ridge before dropping down to the 24 road. I had read on both Portland Hikers and Summit Post that there were at least remnants of a trail up the ridge line, towards the summit. If it was there, I sure couldn't find it. The forest started out open, then the brush got pretty heavy for about 200 yards. Finally, as I was rounding the bump on the ridge, the brush cleared and then it was easy going with great views to the south & east.
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From there, it was a pretty fun ridge walk, with only occasional light brush. At one point, found this rock, delicately balanced on 3 rocks.
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This block was like 1/2 the size of a small car. Somebody please explain to me how that happened!

Then I was able to move to the east side of the ridge and had so much fun going up the open cinder slope with an elk trail to make it easy. After rounding a little spur, I had this view to the south
Bird_Pano-S.jpg
with the amazing red cinder saddle. Shortly was on the summit. Here is a view north, back at Sawtooth Mtn.
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And, another view of Lemei Rock over the red cinder saddle
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It didn't take too much thought to decide that I really didn't want to deal with the brush again, so decided to drop down to the red cinder saddle, and then go straight down slope (W) to the PCT. That all went really smoothly, because like most of the Indian Heaven, the old growth timber is really open and easy to travel through. Then it was north on the PCT back to the #108, Cultus Creek trail. Decided to take it back to the 24 road, then hitch a ride back up to the berry fields. Glad I did, because I soon learned that the trail is pretty badly rutted with lots of loose rock, because it is so steep. So now have to recommend staying on the PCT, even though it is about 2 miles longer. Oh, the ride? Didn't take too long before a pickup truck stopped. I jumped in the back and sat next to 3 Hispanic kids. They were on their way up to pick berries. When he stopped, I thanked the driver and shook his hand, but don't think he understood a word I said, except to understand that I was thanking him.
Kelly
There is no shortcut to anyplace worth going to.

PM me about the soon to be released:
Skamania 231
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Ryan Ojerio
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Joined: September 21st, 2008, 6:31 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Re: Sawtooth and Bird Mountains

Post by Ryan Ojerio » August 25th, 2014, 9:57 am

Nice trip report - I love the mug!
Once back down to the #107 trail, I continued south. I didn't have to go very far before it occurred to me that “almost no one uses this trail past the way trail” because while the section I walked up was very clean (and had no berries anywhere near the trail), this section had stuff growing in the tread and there were berries all over the place. As it switch-backed down the south slope, there were sections where erosion was a real problem.
FYI - we've got a volunteer work party to brush out the trail on the South side of Sawtooth. Volunteers can come for Saturday or Sunday (or both). We'll be base camped at Cultus Creek and have Saturday's potluck dinner there.

Details and RSVP at: http://vols.wta.org/web/web.pl?sm+21746+ON

- Cheers, Ryan
Washington Trails Association
Southwest Washington Regional Manager
[email protected]
(360) 722-2657

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K.Wagner
Posts: 652
Joined: June 2nd, 2013, 1:25 pm
Location: Vancouver, WA

Re: Sawtooth and Bird Mountains

Post by K.Wagner » August 25th, 2014, 6:28 pm

Ryan,

You've probably surveyed the trail. But just in case......
A) The trail is generally in very good shape.
B) The brush was the worst along the section where the trail is on top of the ridge (starting maybe 250 yards up from the PCT)
C) The topo maps aren't accurate about the route, there are actually 3 switch-backs across a talus slope. The erosion is pretty bad in there, and if nothing is done soon, the tread will be lost soon.

Would really love for the WTA to take on the Cultus Crk trail, it has really gotten rough.

If I can sweet talk the wife into letting me loose again, will join you one of those days.
Kelly
There is no shortcut to anyplace worth going to.

PM me about the soon to be released:
Skamania 231
"How to really get off the beaten path in Skamania County"

User avatar
Ryan Ojerio
Posts: 519
Joined: September 21st, 2008, 6:31 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Re: Sawtooth and Bird Mountains

Post by Ryan Ojerio » August 26th, 2014, 8:17 am

K.Wagner wrote:Would really love for the WTA to take on the Cultus Crk trail, it has really gotten rough.
Thanks for the trail notes. I haven't been up there, but that echoes what I've heard from my two volunteers who scouted it out earlier. We have a second weekend on the Cultus Trail on October 4th and 5th. Volunteers wanted for either Sat. or Sunday or both.

Details and RSVP at: http://vols.wta.org/web/web.pl?sm+21796+ON

- Thanks! Ryan
Washington Trails Association
Southwest Washington Regional Manager
[email protected]
(360) 722-2657

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