Spring om Lake Issyk Kul
Much to my delight, I discovered the Trekking Union of Kyrgyzstan (TUK) just over three weeks ago and since then I have been able to go on four hikes with them. This past weekend’s hike was challenging, in my opinion tougher than Mt Adams or South Sister in a day, yet the TUK program describes the hike as “not Categorical hike average level of training and requires basic skills of being in the mountains.” I may just qualify as having a “average level of training” but I am definitely far from fit: My last two real hikes were with Brad (August 2013) and Karl (January 2014), otherwise I have basically spent my time travelling and eating out, a sedentary lifestyle that has allowed my already ample fat supplies to grow even larger. Anyhow, I was keen to see if I could haul my bulk onto a 15,000’ peak without acclimatization!
Instructions were to meet up at 10.45 am Saturday morning for an 11.00 am minibus departure. As a Scandinavian, it is deeply engrained in me to show up on time, so although fully aware that we would leave around thirty minutes late, I arrived at 10.52 am as the first one. At 11.15 am, as I was seated on the bus, a young woman was kindly checking if I had everything:
- “Yes, gloves, hat, gaiters, jacket, fleece, food...”
- “Tent?”
- “Uh? No, the program said we would be staying in the Ratseka Hut!”
Well, I could sleep in the hut (at the great expense of $10) but she said I would still need a sleeping bag, as the hut was cold. So we went inside the TUK office and I rented a sleeping bag for the weekend for $1.00! There was no need to sign any papers; I simply handed over 50 Som. Likewise, I have never had to sign any waivers regarding my safety.
We did get underway thirty minutes late and drove the 35 km to the Ala-Archa National Park. From there it is a strenuous hike to the Ratseka Hut at 3,370 m (11,000’) with about 4,000’ EG.
One arrow shows the route to the hut, the second Uchitel Peak.
The group was all locals, so I was basically on my own, as only a few spoke a little English. Furthermore, the second oldest participant was 20 years younger than me, so I was a bit of a dinosaur in the assembly. On the way up, I had a distinct advantage, as I was not burdened with a tent or cooking gear! So with my little (work) computer backpack and a sleeping bag in hand, I made my way toward the hut amateur-style, arriving as one of the first. Conditions had greatly changed since I last hiked to the hut three weeks ago, when the last couple of hours were on snow.
Kara on the way down three weeks earlier; the "B" indicates Box Peak, as this 4,282 m summit frequently appears in the pictures. Note the chain railing poking out of the snow behind Kara.
The same chain railing as above, just 3 weeks later!
The Ratseka Hut
View from the hut, Peak Korona (4,860m) furthest away on the left is the only name I know.
The route to be taken the next day.
Sunset on Korona Peak
The hut was pleasant and I had a dormitory designed for twenty all to myself, well except for some rodent that made pitter-patter noises in the night! Given that no blankets come with the bunks, I was happy to have a sleeping bag.
Departure was at 5.55 am (five minutes ahead of schedule!) and after a few hundred meters the ascent started.
The hut can be seen in the background
Looking across to Box Peak
Given that the EG is 3,900’ in under two miles, the trail tends to go steeply up and it is mostly on rubble. In some areas it got to the “two steps forward, one step back” kind of hiking, something that was undesirable at this altitude, as the whole ascent could quickly become a “huff n’ puff fest.”
Occasionally there was actually a trail. The 'Gorge-like' moss is actually rock-hard lichen!
Typical going
Yes, I am on the trail and it is in the picture!
The summit ridge, the silhouette is Alec.
Alec on the summit.
As time went by, I gradually passed group members and eventually I met the trip leader on the summit. All during the ascent the views had been growing and they were glorious from the peak. Alec was pleased to see me (he must have been waiting there for a while) and we talked as much as his 10 words of English allowed. I learned that either he did not know the names of the surrounding peaks or there was a mega misunderstanding between us!
Me at 4,535m (14,900')
The view
Looking back down to the hut, the ascent route is indicated.
Alec left and I waited for the young couple who were about 30 minutes behind me. After congratulating them, I set off. A ways down, Alec was kindly waiting for me, obviously worried about losing the old dodo in his group.
Heading down
The easiest route (a vague trail marked by cairns) was hard to spot and after Alec misdirected me a couple of times (i.e. he sent me off the trail!), and quickly I ended up ahead... 40 years of experience in this kind terrain sharpens ones navigational skills! Hereafter, we efficiently hiked down, as I had very little trouble following the trail, and Alec can keep up with my pace in his sleep. I suspect that he was also frequently in a cloud of dust, as the trail is very steep and loose, so I probably frequently kicked up a major dust storm. He did follow at a respectful 5 to 10 meters probably some kind of dust avoidance effort! It is not often that I sit down on my butt more than five times on a single descent, but it was certainly the case on this descent. Most people in our group had trekking poles (correction: Kyrgyzstan not being as fashionable as Portland, ski poles!), certainly something that I frequently wished for... My thighs are still sore!
Back at the hut we had to wait almost two hours for the last stragglers to get off the mountain. About 2/3 of the 15 person group made it up. A thrilling weekend and I am delighted that I managed to summit without excessive suffering!
http://gpsfly.org/g/3345
Facts:
19 km (12 miles)
2,500 meters EG (8,200’ EG)
Great report love the serendipity in your adventures there they are the most memorable IMO.
