Enchanted Valley Backpacking Trip

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BlueCopper
Posts: 7
Joined: February 3rd, 2014, 11:57 am

Enchanted Valley Backpacking Trip

Post by BlueCopper » April 10th, 2014, 3:26 pm

Hello! This trip report is from July 13-17, 2013, so very long overdue, but I've only now ‎decided to join in rather than lurk and figured out how to shrink my pictures.‎

Day one, we got a very late start out of Portland, of course. By the time the car was ‎packed, the list quadruple-checked, the new memory card for the camera purchased, and the ‎anniversary present given to the husband - surprise, a water filtration system so we don't have to ‎borrow your brother's! - we were off to Olympic National Park for a wedding anniversary ‎celebratory four-night backpacking trip.

The weather forecast said low 70's and dry for our trip, and it was gorgeous. The drive ‎up was lovely, sunny, and shorter than we thought. We did have a nasty moment when we ‎realized we had already passed the last gas station and would not have enough to get us back to ‎civilization on the return trip, but I guess Forest Rangers have to get gas too, so we payed ‎premium near the Quinault Ranger Station to tide us over. At the station itself, we filled out our ‎self-registration passes and slipped them into the drop box with our money. I had made sure that ‎we could do this after station hours on the off-chance we were late, which turned out to be a ‎great idea. The station also could have loaned us bear cans, but only during operating hours, so ‎we decided we didn't need them.‎

We started at about 6pm at the Grave's Creek Trailhead and made it as far as Pony ‎Bridge, where we camped for the night. My almost-brand-new boots and his completely brand ‎new boots held up just fine. The husband had a blast slinging our packs up in the trees, and I had ‎an uproarious time making the fire - I had dug out the mess kit I borrowed from my dad, and in ‎with some other things, I found the lighter and a blue gel. On the backpacking trips he had taken ‎me on, he had used a very cool blue gel firestarter, so I was delighted to discover this treasure ‎and liberally smeared my tinder with it. After three or four increasingly frustrating tries at ‎lighting not only my little sticks but even toilet paper, during which I used more and more gel, I ‎finally smelled the stuff and discovered I had been using dish soap! Oops. I got the fire going ‎no problem after that, and we ate a cold dinner anyway. We saw a wonderfully warty toad ‎traveling through our campsite, then we hit the sack. ‎

The next day we hiked about thirteen miles in to Enchanted Valley, where we spent the ‎next two nights. We about died carrying our packs that we stocked with delicious (as opposed ‎to light) food stuffs. The scenery was a bit weedy while we were along the river, but when it ‎climbed away and into the forest it became gorgeous old growth and huckleberries. We passed ‎through three distinct belts of elevation: too early for huckleberries, tons of ripe huckleberries, ‎and the-animals-already-got-all-the-huckleberries. There were sections of oak trees where we ‎rested in the shade, and we passed many beautiful campsites along the water. The only rotten ‎part was the little silk worms that were hanging from almost every tree. I got overheated, and ‎not only was I covered in dried salty sweat, but also draped in invisible but quite tangible ‎cobwebs plus the little green worms. Think twice before going in worm-season? ‎
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View as we entered the valley.
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The creek side near our camp site.
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Little waterfalls were everywhere along the walls.
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Once we reached the valley, we set up camp a little further up from the chalet near the ‎creek. There were about four sites along there, all nice and flat with trees for hanging packs. We ‎had plenty of privacy, although we did have neighbors both nights. The third day we left our ‎packs and headed up to Anderson Pass for some stunning views. Shortly past our tent site, we ‎spotted a bobcat! He had obviously been watching us, and quickly and gracefully and silently ‎disappeared, too quickly for a picture. Before the trail completely left the creek bed, we spotted ‎one lone campsite about three miles further in than ours and one worth going back for. It was ‎occupied then, but the pine needle carpet and extreme privacy looked very appealing for next ‎time. The views from up the pass were stunning and the monkey flowers and lupine were ‎blooming along the mountain trail. We had a meat and cheese lunch in the pass before heading ‎home for the night. Back at our camp we saw a lovely doe who just would not leave, and the ‎next morning another doe brought her twin fauns over to play. ‎
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Our camp in Enchanted Valley.

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Our lovely camp. Next time, I would bring more dried soups, less canned chicken and summer sausage. After hiking in the heat all day, I didn't want that tasty but heavy stuff anyway.
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About where we saw the bobcat.
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Headed toward Anderson Pass.
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Doe in our camp site. Maybe it's her camp site?
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We left our valley a day early since we thought we'd like to camp at Pony Bridge again to ‎avoid a sixteen mile hike out. We saw a grouse family and, just when I had despaired of ever ‎seeing any of the black bears whose supposed constant presence made us hang our bags every ‎night, there he was amongst the huckleberries!
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Highlight of my trip!
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Other fauna of the trip consisted of the swarm of ‎flies that started annoying us the morning we left Enchanted Valley. We thought it was a good ‎thing we were leaving, but there were more flies along the trail. After a few hours of not being ‎able to stop moving lest the flies land on us, we started noticing that there weren't flies anywhere ‎else and the other hikers we passed didn't seem bothered. Eventually, we had to conclude that ‎after three days of only wash cloth baths, we smelled, and the flies were following us. The creek ‎had been too frigid for even my fastidious hygiene, and although I dunked my head in a creek on ‎the way out, my thoughts became consumed with day dreams of a hot bath, soap, and maybe a ‎pina colada. ‎

Our last morning was a push to get out of the woods, out of our boots, and into our beach ‎hotel early. We chatted with the very nice ranger who had stopped by the trailhead, then made ‎for Long Beach and a hot bath. By this time, we looked like scary bums and the hotel concierge ‎looked very alarmed when we checked in. We spent our actual anniversary there on the beach ‎with our fruity cocktails and blisters the same size as our toes. It was a fabulous trip.‎
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Crab and cocktails I made for us when we got home. No more trail mix, no sir!
2013 Anniversary to the Olympcs 224edited.jpg (151.78 KiB) Viewed 2390 times

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retired jerry
Posts: 14418
Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm

Re: Enchanted Valley Backpacking Trip

Post by retired jerry » April 11th, 2014, 4:42 pm

Nice bear pictures.

I keep planning a trip there, thanks.

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Roy
Posts: 2824
Joined: January 25th, 2010, 6:35 pm

Re: Enchanted Valley Backpacking Trip

Post by Roy » April 12th, 2014, 3:37 pm

Nice report I've never been there but herd lots about it. Your theory on the flies made me laugh then think about it. A nice read and a nice spread of goodies at the end.
The downhill of the mind is harder than the uphill of the body. - Yuichiro Miura

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MariposaMan
Posts: 40
Joined: April 14th, 2014, 10:04 pm
Location: Eugene, OR

Re: Enchanted Valley Backpacking Trip

Post by MariposaMan » April 15th, 2014, 5:33 pm

So cool you saw a bobcat!

My one-and-only backpacking trip to the Olympics was in this area, nearly a decade ago. It was early September and flies were by then almost an afterthought. Clouds concealed Mt. Anderson/Anderson Pass most of the time, but still beautiful scenery. There were many black bears in the LaCrosse Basin. At LaCrosse Lake there were no trees of suitable size to hang food, so I was glad to make use of the bear-proof canister on loan from the NPS. Huckleberries were plentiful, so I figured the bears had enough to forage on and would leave me be (which they did). One of my fondest memories was of the huge, solitary bull elk that almost magically emerged from the passing clouds, high above the lake––quite a majestic sight.

Thanks for sharing.

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Helen
Posts: 234
Joined: June 21st, 2011, 5:13 am

Re: Enchanted Valley Backpacking Trip

Post by Helen » April 15th, 2014, 6:28 pm

What a wonderful trip report, thank you so much for sharing. I want to go here!!! I love hiking in this cool weather, but... hurry up August and get here!

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