Last Saturday, Jim (Crusak) and I escaped the clouds below, and traveled up through a magnificent inversion into Mount Saint Helens' blast zone. What a day it was. The air was calm as could be. While the temperature was near freezing down by the Hummocks, it climbed nearly 15° by the time we got up to JRO, topping out near 60°F for most the day as we meandered for miles along a ridgeline completely unburdened of trees several decades ago, leaving sweeping vistas in all directions. My goodness it was grand!
By way of example, I've seen countless photos of Spirit Lake and MSH, but I can't recall ever seeing the reflection of the volcano in the lake before!
MSH reflecting on Spirit Lake, Harry's Ridge on right. Bear Cove, in the foreground, was at its most ruffled all day here.
Due the inversion, much of the horizon was shrouded in mists throughout the day. The path followed by the Columbia River was obvious from this distance by the sea of clouds that didn't dissipate. Clark County looked to be in a fog bank all day long. But we were virtually alone along our route, crossing paths with only two other humans all day. They were easily outnumbered by the two herds of elk we saw, numbering probably twenty head each. We arrived at Johnston Ridge Observatory (JRO) about 8:00 am, and were "on the (tourist) trail" within 15 minutes., before heading off toward Devil's Elbow, the Spillover, Harry's Ridge, and points beyond.
Golden sunrise at JRO. Two hikers' cars in the lot before us. Two USFS folks enjoying the morning light show, too.
The rock arch high above Saint Helens Lake, on the Boundary Trail, is nicely backlit.
The main climbing routes take one to the bump on left, clearly lower than the one that's just right-of-middle.
(I definitely need to take the Red Rocks route sometime soon!)
One of two large herd of elk we saw, enjoying their breakfast solitude before most hikers hit the hills.
Ten (10!) wide-angle shots stitched together to capture a portion of the view from Devil's Elbow.
Jim hiking into the area known as "The Spillover." My google-fu failed to find a good tale on that name?
Crossing up over the Spillover, we see Coldwater Peak in the golden light of dawn. The Rock Arch is through the hill on right.
Our general game plan is to follow the Boundary Trail to the summit of Mount Margaret, roughly 10 miles from JRO, and then return tagging both The Dome and Coldwater Peak on the way back as time allowed. Not sure if it was because the day was so picturesque, or what, but it turned out we didn't get to the top of Margaret until about 1:00. With a 6:00 sunset, that was almost exactly the midpoint of our available daylight. Along the way to Margaret, the sights were truly magnificent, though. Certainly, the only regrets may be that there wasn't even more time to soak them in.
Climbing up away from Harry's Ridge, taking in the incredible calm of Spirit Lake.
The low late-autumn sun angle made shooting into the south difficult. But often worth it.
I've had the privilege, several times, of introducing people to this view of Saint Helens Lake. Absolutely awesome.
Coldwater Peak is off to the left, The Dome is the sharp knob above the lake, and Margaret is next big bump to right.
There wasn't even a ripple on Saint Helens Lake, either.
Jim passing through the Rock Arch. He was surprised the Boundary Trail went right through it.
Just beyond the arch is a section of trail that may cause some jitters in folks with height issues.
I was thrilled to note that it no longer affects me, as it once did, in that way at all!
Fall colors settling in on the Boundary Trail as it approaches the 3/4-mile spur up Coldwater Peak.
The colors of Saint Helens Lake are tantalizing. I didn't remember the vertical logs, either!
The sun's reflection traces an arc across Saint Helens Lake as we round the ridge above it.
A landscape so broad, I ended up stitching together nearly 30 panoramas from this trip.
The ridge between Coldwater Peak and Mount Margaret is dotted with numerous rock formations.
Another rock outcropping, and our first close-up of The Dome.
Yet another stunning outcropping, decorated with golden grasses and red-barked shrubs.
Half-moon rising above the next outcropping down the trail.
Approaching The Dome from the west. That saddle to left offers great views of Minnie Peak.
Peder, if you're reading this, I'd love to see a trace of your approximate route up the backside of Minnie Peak!
Yeah, that's really the name of it.
While I've called it a ridge-walk, we actually traversed back and forth between the bumps here.
Mount Margaret now in clear sight in distance on right. Whittier Ridge rising up from behind our ridge.
Another perspective of The Dome, from the east. Trail crosses within a couple hundred feet of summit.
Margaret's bulk causes it to generally appear closer than it ever was! Yes, another pano.
A seat with a (heckuva!) view. High-tech composting toilet at Dome Camp.
Travel south of Boundary Trail is restricted, but north of the trail it's Elk Season!
After passing The Dome, reflections on Spirit Lake really start taking on shape!
Hard to not take dozens of shots of the lake along this stretch. It just got better as we went along.
Pausing to "savor the view" of Whittier Ridge from Margaret Camp. (photo: Jim)
"Are we there yet?"
Whittier Ridge made more than a cameo appearance here! (If anyone would care to trace the trail along there,
that'd be really cool, too!)
Backside of Margaret (off to right), Mt. Teragram/Tomroy, and Whittier Ridge.
Maximum zoomage back at Rock Arch, more than halfway to JRO.
View of MSH and Spirit Lake from summit of Mount Margaret!
It was at the summit we actually met the only other person we talked to all day. He'd also hiked from JRO, and was happy to see us if only to feel that he wasn't "the only crazy one" to come here from that direction. We took our packs off, enjoyed a bit of lunch, took a bunch of photos, and scampered on our way again all within about 30 minutes or so. Darn it anyway, the days are getting short!
Mount Rainier popping up above Whittier.
Mount Teragram/Tomroy
Goat Rocks on horizon. Strawberry Mountain (I think?) in foreground.
Mount Margaret has two conspicuous bumps on top. This is the shorter of them. (photo: Jim)
And this, about a 20-foot scramble up, is the apparent summit! (photo: Jim)
Seems to be the anchor for a missing geodetic survey marker marking the summit?
The "ridge" we'd traversed. SHL in distance on left, then Coldwater Peak and The Dome.
Another view of Teragram/Tomroy, with Rainier and Goat Rocks in distance, from summit.
Our next two summits? Coldwater Peak and The Dome.
Including this shot for anyone contemplating an off-trail adventure up The Dome.
Following a quick "working" lunch, we turn around and head back west into the sun again.
The eyes become numb to the nonstop views on this route. Be sure to guard against that!
An enormous tree trunk that once grew atop this gigantic green boulder.
As we hiked away, we turned and noticed a group on top of Teragram/Tomroy! Anybody we know?
Never had the pleasure of meeting the folks tented up at Margaret Camp, either.
The soils here still drain pretty darn well. Heh... No persistent water sources crossed the trail.
Never a boring view... But I will finish this TR in far less time than it took to capture the photos!
As we rounded The Dome, we took a stab at racing up the backside. It seemed pretty doable, really. Lots of goat tracks indicated they'd been there before us. The footing wasn't ideal, though surely doable with time and care. In the end, we decided to bail and make the run up Coldwater instead. I think we did get pretty darn close, though.
Slope varied from 30-45° on backside of The Dome, and was mostly dry grass and ash.
I got just about to that little evergreen. Should've dropped my pack on the trail, in retrospect.
Jim coming back down from The Dome.
Heading back to Coldwater Peak...
The dark black hummocks at the north end of Bear Cove have always fascinated me.
Saint Helens Lake still incredibly calm.
Another potential jigsaw puzzle shot!
People always mistake my photos of this lake for Crater Lake. How is that?
Unlike on The Dome, a trail facilitated us powering 3/4-mile and 700' up to the summit of Coldwater Peak!
It is a rather incredible view. (Yeah, understatement is setting in...)
67-megapixel 360° interactive Photosynth
Jim enjoying a Coldwater Peak Experience! (A small part of the pano above.)
Me on the other prominent peak. (photo: Jim)
Looking back at The Dome and Mount Margaret from Coldwater Peak. Goat Rocks in distance.
Mount Rainier and Minnie Peak
A final boost of energy for the five mile trek back to JRO!
I'd like to introduce you to a guy who's pretty darn happy to have spent a day in the blast zone!
Golden rays shining through the Rock Arch, as the sun sets in the west.
Always a highlight, no matter how many times you've been here.
The "golden hour" hits Coldwater Peak and the Rock Arch.
Shadows really starting to stretch as we descend towards Spirit Lake and Harry's Ridge again.
Immediately before sunset, the base of Harry's Ridge with Mount Adams rising above.
Sunset at 6pm sharp. We're not quite back to Devil's Elbow yet. Note sea of clouds coming up Toutle Valley.
We ended up making it back to the parking lot at JRO by about 6:45. Didn't need to resort to headlamps, although we were within 5-10 minutes of pitch darkness. This was yet another fabulous day in the blast zone! Not sure they get much better. Can't recommend this trek highly enough.
Final stats, according to the GPS, were 21.4 miles and 5050' EG.
http://gpsfly.org/gps_map.php?gps_id=2854&w=645&h=440
Just. Do. It.
JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
Karl
Back on the trail, again...
Back on the trail, again...
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
So those pyramid shaped piles by spirit lake are Hummocks? I wondered after our trip there couple of weekends ago. I think they're very interesting and kept finding myself taking pictures of them. Thanks for enlightening me on what they are. Great TR and Pics!
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
Thanks! Yep, they are everywhere. A guy named Harry Glicken mapped most of them, even pinpointing their origin on the volcano in many cases, and published the most detailed accounts available...Zia wrote:So those pyramid shaped piles by spirit lake are Hummocks? I wondered after our trip there couple of weekends ago. I think they're very interesting and kept finding myself taking pictures of them. Thanks for enlightening me on what they are. Great TR and Pics!
- Rockslide-Debris Avalanche of May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helens Volcano, Washington - Glicken, 1996
http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Projects/Glic ... ework.html
As well as at the end of Devil's Elbow! Most bizarre.
Karl
Back on the trail, again...
Back on the trail, again...
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
What a fantastic day. My first MSH blast zone area hike! Great way to get introduced to the beauty, devastation and amazing (ongoing) recovery in the area.
Thanks for taking the lead on this one, Karl. Another sunrise to sunset day on the trail! Seems like that's been the theme for 2013.
We really lucked out on the weather and lack of crowds. It was so quiet for most of the day due to the lack of wind. And the views were definitely non-stop. From the top of Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak the views were especially superb.
I'm looking forward to more MSH trips!
Thanks for taking the lead on this one, Karl. Another sunrise to sunset day on the trail! Seems like that's been the theme for 2013.
We really lucked out on the weather and lack of crowds. It was so quiet for most of the day due to the lack of wind. And the views were definitely non-stop. From the top of Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak the views were especially superb.
I'm looking forward to more MSH trips!
- adamschneider
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Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
What do you mean? The trail is on the top of the ridge.kepPNW wrote:Whittier Ridge made more than a cameo appearance here! (If anyone would care to trace the trail along there, that'd be really cool, too!)
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
Incredible day! I never tire of that area. And yeah, the silence was just awesome.Crusak wrote:We really lucked out on the weather and lack of crowds. It was so quiet for most of the day due to the lack of wind. And the views were definitely non-stop. From the top of Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak the views were especially superb.
Well that's too easy, isn't it. For some reason, I was under the impression it wound between some of the spires.adamschneider wrote:What do you mean? The trail is on the top of the ridge.kepPNW wrote:Whittier Ridge made more than a cameo appearance here! (If anyone would care to trace the trail along there, that'd be really cool, too!)
Karl
Back on the trail, again...
Back on the trail, again...
- adamschneider
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Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
On the highest part of the ridge, it occasionally switches between the north and south sides, but on the southeastern pinnacles that freak everyone out, it goes "behind" (to the northeast of) all of them.kepPNW wrote:Well that's too easy, isn't it. For some reason, I was under the impression it wound between some of the spires.adamschneider wrote:What do you mean? The trail is on the top of the ridge.kepPNW wrote:Whittier Ridge made more than a cameo appearance here! (If anyone would care to trace the trail along there, that'd be really cool, too!)
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
Ahhh, okay, from where we were, it sure didn't seem there were many options on the near side.adamschneider wrote:On the highest part of the ridge, it occasionally switches between the north and south sides, but on the southeastern pinnacles that freak everyone out, it goes "behind" (to the northeast of) all of them.kepPNW wrote:For some reason, I was under the impression it wound between some of the spires.
Karl
Back on the trail, again...
Back on the trail, again...
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
finally got Jim up there looks like a gorgeous day. I'm still hoping to sneak one up there.
Karl I've been meaning to ask you if you can recommend a good camera I'm ready for a new one and your photos are very nice. Been using my lg pone and a cannon power shot. I even still have an old cannon AE 1 and a Pentax 35mil its a good one I use both now and then when the animals are loony out in the back yard.
I would appreciate your ideas, Still need to contact splinter cat, Guy and Setvefromdodge. already asked Pdxgene,
Another great tr Tom er Roy
Karl I've been meaning to ask you if you can recommend a good camera I'm ready for a new one and your photos are very nice. Been using my lg pone and a cannon power shot. I even still have an old cannon AE 1 and a Pentax 35mil its a good one I use both now and then when the animals are loony out in the back yard.
I would appreciate your ideas, Still need to contact splinter cat, Guy and Setvefromdodge. already asked Pdxgene,
Another great tr Tom er Roy
The downhill of the mind is harder than the uphill of the body. - Yuichiro Miura
Re: JRO to Mt Margaret and Coldwater Peak, 26-Oct-2013
Thanks, Tom! Two reasons I'm probably not the guy to ask. I'm "the ultimate" point-n-shoot photographer. Can't even see the viewfinder, other than crude framing, without putting on the cheaters (which I never do "just" for a photo). And I use what can only be called disposable pocket cameras, which I tend to get as refurbs for just $100-150. If that's what you're looking for, well, my last two Panasonic Lumix models (ZS7, ZS19) served me reasonably well.Roy wrote:Karl I've been meaning to ask you if you can recommend a good camera I'm ready for a new one and your photos are very nice. Been using my lg pone and a cannon power shot. I even still have an old cannon AE 1 and a Pentax 35mil its a good one I use both now and then when the animals are loony out in the back yard.
Karl
Back on the trail, again...
Back on the trail, again...