I've wanted to stay in a fire lookout for years but have never had my act together far enough in advance to snag a reservation. This year I planned ahead, though, and in March I made reservations for the Gold Butte Lookout near Detroit for September. Usually late September is fairly reliable for decent weather, but when I checked the weather one last time on Friday it seemed that Mother Nature was going to let us down big time. Despite the gnarly forecast we were unwilling to let our $140 go down the drain so we stuck to our plan and hoped for the best.
We drove the very rough Road 4697 up to Road 453, the spur that goes most of the way to the lookout. 453 is gated but renters are given a combination for the first gate. It's a hell of a lock, too, recessed up in a cavity on the backside of the gate. We had to unlock that padlock four times over the weekend and it took us about five minutes each time.
Half a mile later is a second gate where renters have to park and walk the rest of the way. The signboard on the left says it's half a mile from this point to the lookout which is a LIE. (Half a mile is also what recreation.gov and the USFS website say.) It's half a mile to the end of the road, then another third of a mile on a trail. That extra third of a mile makes a big difference when you're hauling a load of stuff up there. Also, I have no idea why renters can't drive through this second gate the last half mile to road's end. Although rough, it's certainly very drivable and there's plenty of room to turn around at the end of the road.
I had called the Detroit Ranger Station the week before and asked if there were any kind of wheelbarrows or carts on site to help haul our stuff up. I was told there were not. So imagine our surprise to find TWO wheelbarrows at the gate.
We wrestled them around the gate to the car, loaded them up, wrestled them back around the gate, and headed up the hill a little after 7pm.
It was dark and it was raining. And it quickly became apparent that we had overpacked. Plus the wheelbarrows themselves were so immensely heavy that they easily doubled the weight we were dealing with. And since there is no water at the summit we had a lot of heavy water with us. We slowly struggled up the road, cursing the darkness and the rain. (It was too dark that night for pictures so these next few are from the next day.)
When we got to the end of the road half a mile later and discovered we STILL had another third of a mile to go...that was a discouraging moment.
At least the rain had stopped by this point. The trail was well-graded for hiking, but not for pushing a heavy wheelbarrow.
Our hands, arms, shoulders, and backs were giving out so neither wheelbarrow made it to the summit. We made several trips back down the trail to the spots where we had abandoned them, carrying our gear up by hand the rest of the way.
Tired, sore, and very sweaty we finally had all our gear in the lookout by 8:30. We settled in, lit some candles, and did some unpacking.
The welcome sign cracked me up because the last item in the if-there's-lightning checklist was "Enjoy the show!"
The rain continued to hold off so I went outside to take some night shots.
In the morning it was definitely cloudy but we weren't socked-in. The clouds were high and smaller clouds were swirling in and around the surrounding hills.
For a short time we got a glimpse of some peaks. There's Mt. Washington and part of the Three Sisters.
Mt. Jefferson trying to come out.
Checking out the limited views.
Breakfast was scones that I had baked at home and which we heated up on the stove. Yum!
The lookout on Gold Butte was built in 1934 and used up until the 1970s. It sat abandoned for several decades before the Sand Mountain Society got involved. The building was in terrible shape by then and full of holes from carpenter ants. The SMS spent about six or seven years rebuilding the lookout from the ground up. I think that the first season it was available for rent was 2006 or 2007. It is in GREAT shape and the SMS is to be commended for all their hard work (they provided 1,000 volunteer hours to restore the lookout!). You can see pictures from the restoration effort here. And you can read about the restoration here.
Where's the outhouse? Found it! A very sturdy and well-constructed outhouse, I must say.
We found the rusty old trash pile from when this was an active lookout.
There's a great little campfire spot near the cabin that would be awesome on a beautiful summer evening.
This little ground squirrel looked VERY healthy. He's clearly been fed by past renters.
With a forecast that called for 100% chance of rain we were pretty shocked to see blue sky!
It was the last day of summer, but fall was already well underway up here.
Since the weather wasn't so bad we decided to head out for a short excursion. We drove down Road 451 and parked where it intersected with Road 459, which we walked down to reach a geocache.
The cache was hidden at a site that was described as the Gypsy Queen Mine, but I'm not sure where the cache owner got that info. In any case it was cool. We didn't see any tunnels but there is some kind of large collapsed structure.
The "road" to the site was pretty rough in spots. Glad we walked it.
Then we headed over to Elk Lake. I'd heard that the road up there was bad and it was. Rough with lots of potholes, and because of all the rain the day before all those potholes were full of muddy water which meant I couldn't tell how deep any of them were, slowing the driving down even further. When we got to the campground at the lake only one brave group was camped there. It was very calm and peaceful here.
We parked and headed off to find a geocache.
We saw quite a few mushrooms on the short trek to the cache.
Trying not to get wet on the way back to the car.
Then we headed back to the lookout to chill out and enjoy the warmth of the woodstove.
Reading in a cozy cabin surrounded by windows is not a bad way to spend a cloudy Saturday afternoon.
I had a lot of fun reading people's entries in the visitor log. There were two more books with entries dating back to 2010. We added our own thoughts before leaving the next day.
The rain started up again before dinner but shafts of sunlight were breaking through.
And then we got a rainbow! It was a complete arch, but I couldn't get the whole thing in one frame so here is the most vivid part of it.
We ate dinner, played gin rummy, drank wine, and read our books. We even got lucky for a brief time with a break in the clouds that revealed some stars!
It was rainy and windy all night and we awoke to very blustery conditions in the morning. We were totally socked-in.
With the wind pushing the clouds around we got occasional glimpses beyond the summit, but not much.
We lingered that morning, sad to be heading out. But finally we started packing up our gear and getting ready to head out into the wind and rain. This was my attempt at keeping both me and my pack dry but the first gust of wind sent the flaps of the parka flying above my head.
We had a pizza lunch in Mill City before the miserably rainy drive home. Despite the less-than-ideal weather we still had a great time this weekend. We want to rent other lookouts and we'll definitely come back to Gold Butte too. Also, next time we will pack like we're backpacking instead of car camping!
By the way, I was amazed at the number of supplies at the lookout. There was LOTS of silverware, some cups, plates, and bowls, some pots and pans, an old campstove and fuel canisters (it worked, too!), candles, matches, three fold-up cots, games, puzzles, and more. And of course the firewood. A whole shed full of firewood that someone (not sure if it's the SMS or the Forest Service) had to haul up there. The hatchet went missing at some point but a family who visited in August noted in their visitor log that they were donating their hatchet to the lookout for future visitors to use, which we did with immense gratitude! Knowing how much stuff is already up there we'll be able to pack smarter next time.
Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
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Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
Very cool! My wife and I spent July 9-10 there this summer, we lucked out with the weather, except it was hotter than hades....we sweated profusely up the hill in the afternoon heat. Luckily, we packed like we were backpacking, but we still took way too much with us. I can't imagine pushing a wheelbarrow up that hill. The FS told me that they are trying to discourage vandalism by keeping the second gate permanently locked. I suppose that's a good excuse, but sure would be nice if you could drive to the trailhead proper.
Put Indian Ridge on you list for the future, and Green Ridge as well. Pretty sparse accommodations at Indian Ridge, and very nice ones at Green Ridge (propane lights, fridge, stove).
Here's a photo of me overloaded about ready to head up the road this past July....
Put Indian Ridge on you list for the future, and Green Ridge as well. Pretty sparse accommodations at Indian Ridge, and very nice ones at Green Ridge (propane lights, fridge, stove).
Here's a photo of me overloaded about ready to head up the road this past July....
"Going to the mountains is going home."
— John Muir
— John Muir
- Karl Helser
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Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
Excellent TR on Gold Butte...and from the heart of my playground. FYI...from the collapsed structure there is a faint trail that follows the drainage all the way up to the ridge. About 3/4 of the way up you'll find the opening to the Gypsy Queen Mine. It's almost closed due to debris falling in front, but you can still find parts and pcs of mining junk. The collapsed structure itself was a large platform built over the creek. There was also a few log cabins on the site that were burned to the ground back in 2002 +/-...they believe by vandals. Several years back I drove in on a couple of shady characters that had some sort of mining operation going on...looked like they were sluicing with a garden hose. After a little investigation, I found out they had a legal active mining claim...
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Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
Judging by other visitor logs I think that overpacking is very common here! Maybe it's the deceptively short hike from the car to the lookout. We're used to packing light for an eight-mile hike to a remote mountain lake and then on a short trip when we have less than a mile to our destination - and no tent to carry! - we think we can bring twice as much. Not so! And yeah, those dang wheelbarrows were probably more hindrance than help since they were so heavy!kelkev wrote:Luckily, we packed like we were backpacking, but we still took way too much with us.
Interesting.... Well their excuse doesn't hold water since vandals couldn't drive past the first locked gate anyway. I asked the Sand Mountain Society and they said their theory was safety. Since the road is rough and in some places a bit narrow they think the Forest Service keeps that part closed as a result. But in my mind if your car made it to that second gate then it can definitely make the last bit. Road 4697 is pretty bad.kelkev wrote:The FS told me that they are trying to discourage vandalism by keeping the second gate permanently locked.
Thanks for the info on the mine, Karl. Fascinating!
Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
Very nice, Cheryl and Greg! I've wanted to do something like that for a long time. Thanks for the excellent TR that documents much of what a lot of us have wondered about the lookout camping experience.
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Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
My wife and I spent some time up there while they were in the process of restoring the lookout. It was kind of a mess then. Sure looks great now! We will have to go back and enjoy the finished product.
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Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
weather made Fall equinox real....best lookout available first come basis.....Hidden Lakes Peak North Cascades Washington...views at sunset sunrise WOW!.good trail up maybe 8 miles spectacular ....double size bed....look up on youtube
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- vibramhead
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Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
Great TR, Cheryl. That photo of the lookout at night with stars above is stellar.
Re: Gold Butte Lookout - Sept. 20-22
Great report. Love the pictures, especially the clouds!