Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

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kepPNW
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Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by kepPNW » June 25th, 2013, 5:05 pm

Peder had agreed to organize a really nice loop trip around the north side of Mount Saint Helens last Saturday. I initially thought I couldn't make it, but came to find I might just be able to. Another few folks were in and/or out and/or kinda-in but sorta-out, and so it went. Met a new trail friend, Floyd, who carpooled along with Peder and me. Were supposed to meet Jeff, the founder of PortlandHikers :!:, at the trailhead and do a little car shuttle to offer a possible bail point at JRO. Unfortunately, the timing didn't work out for that, but we still crossed paths with Jeff at about the half-way point.

The goal, as is usually the case on this side of MSH, is to visit one of the most spectacular overlooks that exists in nature... Saint Helens Lake, from the Boundary Trail saddle between the rock arch and Coldwater Peak!

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Saint Helens Lake - a joy to behold.


We began the day with a nice drive up to the South Coldwater trailhead, which is just about a mile past the gate at the Hummocks trailhead on SR-504. Trail #230A climbs South Coldwater Ridge for nearly 3.5 miles before intersecting with the Coldwater Peak Trail (#230) which continues on another 2.5 miles at the junction with the Boundary Trail (#1!) at about the spot the photo above was taken.

The journey up is varied and incredibly scenic for the most part. Only the first mile or so is in a rather lush new alder forest. That segment was more protected from the direct blast, and presumably more of the original soil remained intact allowing quicker and more vigorous regrowth. After emerging from the forest, the scenery is simply awesome.

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Mandatory stickpic group shot at the trailhead. About 8:45am.


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Mosquitoes have made a hellava comeback through here!


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Down low, especially 3500' and under, paintbrush and lupine are on fire.


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It doesn't take long for MSH to pop out above Johnston Ridge to our south.


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Peder demonstrating for Sean and mcds how to shoulder the really big logs! Heh...


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Just 45 minutes into the hike, we had left the Hummocks area far behind, and were nearing the obliterated logging equipment.


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Penstemon was the real show-stealer this day! At the 3000'-4000' level, it was unrivaled!


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Not sure what this hairy little guy is, but it looked pretty cool.


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The tent caterpillars seem to be poised for another banner year in the blast zone!


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The waterfalls on North Coldwater Ridge were as gorgeous as ever.


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It was really shaping up to be a classic Bluebird Day! <tm-VM>


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This destroyed bulldozer signals we're almost to the Coldwater Peak Trail. Mount Minnie in background.


The landscape changes character a bit once on the Coldwater Peak Trail. It becomes a bit more rugged. Seems to be home to more elk. (Most were in hiding today, though.) Less new growth, and more devastation.

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Near an approved campsite, this cirque provides ideal seating for elk watching on the surrounding hillsides. (See it?)


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Solar-powered two-seater with a view!


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Some of the logged out stumps were positively gigantic! (photo: Peder)


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As we got closer and closer to Mount Minnie, I started envisioning ways to climb it. Gottadoit.


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Above 4000', avalanche lilies were quite common.


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An outstanding viewpoint! Here's a 360° panorama, if you'd like to see what I saw. (photo: Peder)


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The headwaters of Coldwater Creek, with Whittier Ridge in background.


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Whittier Ridge - another (triple-black diamond!) place Peder enjoys leading tour groups.


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We're now into an area where no logging, salvage or otherwise, has taken place.


Being back at the South Coldwater Ridge saddle was fascinating to me, as Peder and I had twice been here on snowshoes over the winter. The first time, we were turned back here in a whiteout. The second time, the adventure had only just begun! Looking around, it was entirely familiar. But in ways the summer-only hiker couldn't know. Love this place! There's always a story here.

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Peder and Floyd approach the saddle. I saw this as the perfect chance to honor the moment with a mayhem-style "Whoooooooooohoooo!"


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Unfortunately, the elk were not amused. :cry:


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We shortly passed what would turn out to be the best approach had we wanted to summit Coldwater Peak.


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The butt-gustin' gully we'd taken on snowshoes still held tight to its snow.


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It took a bit less effort, today, in trail runners. (photo: Peder)


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After cresting that last saddle, it was only one more cirque to our destination, the highest snowfield on left.


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Pausing to gaze at MSH. Mt Adams would normally be back there, but you can just see its base today. (photo: Peder)


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Snowfield on the Boundary Trail saddle is hanging on firm! Cresting it, the view is other-worldy! (photo: Peder)


We dropped packs and just soaked in the beauty all around us, here, for well over a half-hour. How could one not?

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First view of Saint Helens Lake after cresting the massive snowdrift.


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The floating logs, blown down on 18 May 1980, never cease to fascinate.


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The trail up Coldwater Peak is blocked by several extremely steep snowfields that lack any suitable landing zone.


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Peder and Floyd on saddle, while I explore the possibility of climbing the peak.


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Shot of Mount Margaret, taken especially for Tom/Roy.


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Zoomed-out a bit.


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Someday, I'll have a jigsaw puzzle made of an image just like this!


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The next mile or so, to the rock arch and a bit beyond, is simply unparalleled scenically. Jaw-dropping beauty all around us.


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MSH poked in and out of the clouds all day. Rainier was the only other big'un totally unshrouded.


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Yadda, yadda, yadda...


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To be sure, this trail could give the heebie-jeebies to anyone with vertigo or height issues! (photo: Peder)


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Rock arch in background. Nothing much but air below the trail.


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Rock arch, from other side, and Coldwater Peak.


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One last semi-steep snowfield to get across, and that was that for the day. (photo: Peder)


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Looking behind us, into the Backcountry, from just beyond the rock archway.


To this point, we had yet to encounter another human being. That was about to change, in a big way, as we descended towards Spirit Lake. We probably passed at least a half-dozen small groups heading up to where we had been. Including one who asked, "Are you Peder?" I had to disappoint him, and say no. But then quickly said, "He is!", and we all had a good laugh. It was Jeff! We chatted a bit, before he continued on towards SHL and we kept moving down towards the touristy masses on Harry's Ridge.

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Our last view, but one of the first for those coming up, of SHL and the Backcountry.


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Harry's Ridge is the big bump just to the right of Spirit Lake.


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On the way down, we caught glimpse of Goat Rocks off in the distance.


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The tree that stood defiant against the volcano!


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Peder scanning the valleys (successfully!) for elk.


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Climbing Harry's Ridge, Bear Cove and the fascinating hummocks it holds comes into view.


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Peder took lessons from Jack on maximizing EG! (And views, too. :))


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The view from Harry's Ridge - simply the best that money can't buy.


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At the other end of the zoom range, Loowit Falls emptying the crater.


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Not a whole lot of steam coming off the lava dome today.


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Spirit Lake is incredibly calm, but never totally mirror-like, today.


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Reflections on Spirit Lake.


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The trail up and down Harry's Ridge, and all the way back to JRO, are human highways.


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We now need to stay on the trail. Last March, we just off-trailed right over those hummocks on our snowshoes!


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It is, of course, a whole lot more colorful now!


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I noticed a little hummingbird nest in an alder grove!


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The water-filled potholes left by 1980 steam explosions must be photographed on every journey up here.


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In the distance, we noticed tents set up within 100' of Spirit Lake's shoreline!


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The crater's mood changed throughout the day. I really liked these clouds over it.


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The "most difficult" section of trail on the JRO side of the hairpin was in fine shape! Last winter's washouts fully repaired.


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A full-blown flower show was just about to explode all over us. I could sense it.


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And, with this shot, my battery died. I'd forgotten to recharge the spare, too. Drat!!!


So as we entered, full-on, the realm of the flipflops, Peder stepped-up and assumed TR camera duty. :)

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The penstemon and paintbrush at JRO were phenomenal. (photo: Peder)


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But the real show began just west of the Loowit Viewpoint! O.M.G... (photo: Peder)


:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

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Words elude me. (photo: Peder)


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(photo: Peder)


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(photo: Peder)


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(photo: Peder)


Did I mention that we also had this segment of the Boundary Trail entirely to ourselves? No kidding. Every darned flipflop out there went the other way from JRO! Not a single solitary soul west of Loowit Viewpoint! :D

(Mayhem, you know I don't hate people, either! :lol:)

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Finally, the pain was too much. I had to whip out my camera phone! Ugh...! :) (photo: Peder)


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Not too shabby, for a phone?


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As we continued down, the flowers waned, but we were on the softest trail ever. Had just been freshly dug that day, we felt. (photo: Peder)


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Still, even the "grass" was colorful here. (Not sure what that red really is?) (photo: Peder)


When we hit the trail spit at the east end of the Hummocks, Peder volunteered to take the short leg and then hike the road back to the other trailhead and retrieve the car. Floyd and I continued along the longer leg through the hummocks, stopping to take in the Toutle River, the beaver dam, and several other interesting highlights along the way.

In the end, we averaged our numbers and felt we'd traveled about 18.5 miles and 4200' EG. The trailhead lacked a bench, which surprised us. When Peder pulled up, we immediately took advantage of the newfound seating opportunities! :D

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Last shot of the day. About 6:15pm. (photo: Peder)


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Click for a full-sized copy of map.


http://gpsfly.org/gps_map.php?gps_id=2551&w=645&h=440
http://gpsfly.org/a/2551


What a great day! With some great trail friends! I'll do this loop anytime! :D
Karl
Back on the trail, again...

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Crusak
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by Crusak » June 25th, 2013, 5:35 pm

I've been wondering if you guys were able to pull this one off, but didn't want to pester you about it. Finally I couldn't take it so today I sent you a text, Karl.

All that color! Blue skies! Blue lakes! History! (can you tell I'm all worked up?) About an hour ago I took a virtual tour of your photos on Flickr. Certainly a great day for you guys, doing a hike that's got a good distance/EG tally and overwhelming scenery.

How much water/liquids did you guys take with you on the hike? I'm thinking that my 3L platypus bladder would be about right for that hike. Along with a bit of Powerade and coconut water. I've got a bit of a drinking problem...

I'd forgotten about those solar composting toilets - That's something I've wondered about in the MSH area (dealing with, well, that. :) ) Not many places for privacy. :D

Thanks for taking all those pictures guys, and for sharing your trip.
Jim's Hikes

Solvitur Ambulando

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kepPNW
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by kepPNW » June 25th, 2013, 5:49 pm

Thanks, Jim! Wish you'd been available. You'd have loved it. Will go back again, though! :)
Crusak wrote:All that color! Blue skies! Blue lakes! History! (can you tell I'm all worked up?) About an hour ago I took a virtual tour of your photos on Flickr. Certainly a great day for you guys, doing a hike that's got a good distance/EG tally and overwhelming scenery.
Overwhelming is the word! There's just no way to adequately tell someone about this place. I need to go hit that thread you started about places you keep going back to. I think I have some great white/brown shots to compare/contrast.
Crusak wrote:How much water/liquids did you guys take with you on the hike? I'm thinking that my 3L platypus bladder would be about right for that hike. Along with a bit of Powerade and coconut water. I've got a bit of a drinking problem...
Heh, I probably drank less than 2 liters, though I brought about 2.5 and had a Gatorade on the way up. Seems to me getting it in first helps more? In the summer, there's a chance to refill at the JRO drinking fountains, too, with about 5-6 miles left to go. Last March, I got dehydrated while doing this loop on snowshoes. That one really hit me in the gut.
Crusak wrote:I'd forgotten about those solar composting toilets - That's something I've wondered about in the MSH area (dealing with, well, that. :) ) Not many places for privacy. :D
None, nope. And between Harry's Ridge and JRO, it's (supposedly) a $100 minimum fine for stepping off the trail, so you either need to hold it or say the hell with it. :)
Karl
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mayhem
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by mayhem » June 25th, 2013, 6:12 pm

Hmmm? I thought Peder said it was going to be an amazing hike? I just dont see it?? Any video just to make sure I'm not seeing it!

Ok I'm full of shit & & completely jealous! WOW WOW wow!!!

Spoiler: show
O and Mayhem is lying
Shoe Shine Boy Has Left The Building!

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kepPNW
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by kepPNW » June 25th, 2013, 6:28 pm

mayhem wrote:WOW WOW wow!!!
My camera died after only 338 photos and the loop was only 2/3 over! Wah!!! 8-)
Karl
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Roy
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by Roy » June 25th, 2013, 6:56 pm

Looks like you guys had a wonderful time. And you snatched the best day in a few,we had been sweating it out with near fifty people at our home that day for a graduation party whew.

The snow is melting out nicely and when the east side opens I know where I will be. Its a trip well worth the little extra drive but thats what seems to keep people away. One of my favorite things up there how quite it is.

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Shot of Mount Margaret, taken especially for Tom/Roy.
The downhill of the mind is harder than the uphill of the body. - Yuichiro Miura

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Roy
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by Roy » June 25th, 2013, 6:57 pm

mayhem wrote:Hmmm? I thought Peder said it was going to be an amazing hike? I just dont see it?? Any video just to make sure I'm not seeing it!

Ok I'm full of shit & & completely jealous! WOW WOW wow!!!

Spoiler: show
O and Mayhem is lying
Your just jealous :lol:
The downhill of the mind is harder than the uphill of the body. - Yuichiro Miura

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kepPNW
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by kepPNW » June 25th, 2013, 7:08 pm

Roy wrote:Looks like you guys had a wonderful time. And you snatched the best day in a few,we had been sweating it out with near fifty people at our home that day for a graduation party whew.

The snow is melting out nicely and when the east side opens I know where I will be. Its a trip well worth the little extra drive but thats what seems to keep people away. One of my favorite things up there how quite it is.
Yep! It was the only possible day. I'd thought about going on Sunday, but the forecast just say NO WAY! I've definitely got plans to go there, too, just as soon as possible. :D
Karl
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by Rustygoat » June 25th, 2013, 7:18 pm

I was just scanning GE for waterfalls in this area. Awesome pictures! :D Not a waterfall report but truly an amazing hike....beautiful area. Thanks for sharing. :)
Tim

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Peder
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Re: Coldwater and Saint Helens Lakes loop, 22-June-2013

Post by Peder » June 25th, 2013, 8:59 pm

Wonderful TR Karl! Thankfully your camera gave out after 332 pictures or the TR would still be downloading here! Given the number of pictures you posted, my scope is limited:

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There were hundreds of these frogs on the slopes west of the Rock Arch Saddle. I assume that they thrive in the wet environment as the snow melts. I always admire nature's ability for camouflage.

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One frog stood out from the rest for his/her lack of camouflage. It looks suspiciously like a Pacific Tree Frog, though given the surroundings where all trees were blasted away on 18 May 1980, this must be a Pacific Stump Frog (dixit Floyd). Photo by Karl.

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A Karl elk picture!
Some people are really fit at eighty; thankfully I still have many years to get into shape…

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