Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

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Born2BBrad
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Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by Born2BBrad » August 22nd, 2012, 8:48 pm

Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/24/12

Opening picture:
Image

Note: The historical and informative text in this trip report was gathered from several sources, some of it word-for-word. I like to use as much of my own words as possible in my trip reports, but these sources were well written and I didn't know much about the area. The sources include:
"100 Hikes in Washington's Alpine Lakes"
WTA website hiking guide
Summitpost.org trip report
Wikipedepia Enchantments article

Summary:
The Enchantments is an area comprising an upper and a lower basin, the lakes and tarns contained within them, and the peaks of the Stuart Range bounding the basins. The area is located entirely within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness about 15 miles SW of Leavenworth, WA. The Enchantments is regarded by many as one of the most spectacular locations in the Cascade Range.

History:
The first European American to discover the area and name it was A.H. Sylvester, topographer for the US Geological Survey and first supervisor of the Wenatchee National Forest. Sylvester visited the middle Enchantment basin and probably did not venture into the upper basin. This is because, at the time, Snow Creek Glacier covered more of the upper basin than it does today. He is credited with naming some of the features in the region.

By the 1940s climbers discovered the area and began naming the crags. Bill and Peg Stark of Leavenworth, WA became frequent visitors who drew upon various mythologies to name features of the landscape. When they made their first visit in the fall of 1959, they were captivated by the golden splendor of the larch trees in the fall, the numerous lakes and tarns, and jagged peaks towering above. They used fairy names such as Gnome Tarn, Troll Sink, Naiad Lake (officially Temple Lake), Sprite and King Arthur legends in the Lower Enchantment Basin because "the lower basin was not as austere as the upper basin," according to Peg. They used Norse names and mythology for features of the upper basin, for example Brynhild Lake (officially Inspiration Lake), Lake Freya (officially Tranquil Lake), and Valhalla Cirque because, Peg said, it felt "as if the Ice Age had just gone off."

A scan of the original Stark-created map was on the Summitpost.org trip report:
Image

The official naming rulings of the US Board on Geographic Names in the 1960s resulted in a mixture of two name sets being adopted as official, particularly for the lakes, but also exemplified by the feature popularly known as Aasgard Pass being officially designated Colchuck Pass. Different sources still use the unofficial names in some contexts. The current policy of not adopting new names for geographic features in wilderness areas probably precludes the rest of the names identified by the Starks from achieving official status.

Restrictions/Permit Process:
The USFS restricts access to the Enchantments permit area, which includes five zones. The three most popular zones are the Snow Zone (from Icicle Creek up to Snow Lakes), the Colchuck Zone (the area surrounding Colchuck Lake) and the Core Enchantment Zone (the Upper and Lower Enchantment Basins and surrounding peaks). The other zones are the Stuart Zone (the area around Stuart Lake and the northern approaches to Mount Stuart) and the Eightmile/Caroline Zone (Eightmile Lake, Eightmile Mountain, Cashmere Mountain, and vicinity). In addition, the Forest Service has proposed adding the Ingalls Lake, Headlight Basin, and Mount Stuart areas to the permit area.

The 1981 Alpine Lakes Wilderness Plan established a quota of 60 people at one time as the carrying capacity of the Core Enchantment Zone. For overnight camping between June 15 and October 15, hikers in any of the five currently established zones must have permits. 75 percent of the permits for each hiking season are awarded in advance by lottery. For the first time this year, the lottery was online. Winners of the advance lottery must pick up their permit on the day of entry between 7:45-9:00 AM, or the afternoon prior between 2-4 PM. The other 25 percent of permits are issued each morning (except Sunday) at 7:45 a.m. at the Leavenworth ranger station for trips beginning the same day. If not enough permits are available for the day's applicants, the permits are awarded by lottery, literally by pulling names out of a hat.

Each entry into the lottery (you can submit multiple entries) is $6. If awarded a permit, the fee is $5 per day per person.

Routes:
There are two primary ways to reach the Enchantments Basin. The Snow Lake trail climbs 6.5 miles to Snow Lake gaining 4100'. From Snow lake the trail ascends over sloping granite rock another 1400' to Lake Viviane at the lower end of the Enchantments. This hike is described as long, steep, and grueling. The alternate route is via the Stuart Lake trail. The first part of the trail up to Colchuck Lake is 4.75 miles long and gains 2100'; another 1.75 level miles bring hikers to the south end of the lake and to Aasgard Pass, which climbs 2200' in less than a mile. That's right, 2200' in less than a mile. Aasgard Pass is a very steep scramble, which can be extremely dangerous in snow or icy conditions The two routes can be combined to form a loop if the hiking party has two cars, a bicycle, or otherwise arranges transportation between the trail heads.

My Story:
I had never heard of the Enchantments before until reading some trip reports last summer on this website. I knew then that I had to go there and experience it for myself. So earlier this year I entered the lottery twice, using multiple time frames and zones, and Hiker Chris entered once. From all those entries, I won one permit for the Stuart Zone. While happy to have won, I was somewhat bummed that I did not get the Core Enchantment Zone. You see, winners for this zone are not restricted to just that zone. They are free to camp within any zone during the permit time frame. Otherwise, winners for other zones can day hike into the Enchantments Lake basin, but must return to the zone they were awarded for the evening. Not an easy task.

These restrictions are a hassle, but keep the Enchantments from being loved to death. In my research, I read stories from visitors to the area before the permit system. They described cities of tents all over the place. And with dogs being banned, the mountain goat population has thrived.

So on Monday, August 20th, Hiker Chris and I left Portland at 3:30 AM. We had to get to the Leavenworth ranger office to pick up our permits before 9:00 AM or they would be given to someone else. We made it with less than 30 minutes to spare. There was a concern that there would be road closures due to the Taylor Bridge Fire around Cle Elum, WA. The map of the fire showed it covered part of the route by the interchange around Ellensburg, WA. The fire was still burning, but did not cause any road closures along our route. However, we drove through large areas that had just burned.

We picked up our permit at the ranger office without any problem. There were some people waiting to be awarded unclaimed permits that were disappointed to see us arrive. I felt for them but there was nothing I could do to help them. Before heading out to the trailhead, Chris and I got breakfast in the lovely town of Leavenworth. Leavenworth is best described as a touristy, mock Bavarian village.

Leavenworth, WA
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We started at the Stuart Lake trailhead (3400') with the plan of hiking to Stuart Lake (5100'), setting up camp and then relaxing for the rest of the first day. The hike there was uneventful, gaining 1700' in 4.8 miles. Along the way we got our first view of Mt. Stuart (9415')

First View Of Mt. Stuart
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At Stuart Lake we found a great campsite at the west end of the lake. Not having anything else planned for that day, we took a nap for a couple of hours. Napping isn't just for babies. It's also for people who get up at 3 AM.

Stuart Lake/Stuart Range Mountains From Our Campsite
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After napping, we lazed around the rest of the day, enjoying the scenery and the sunny weather. Sometimes I don't do enough relaxing as I should when I'm out in the wilderness.

Later in the day, I saw the couple in the campsite next to us coming back down the trail that continued on past the lake. Knowing that there was supposed to be a trail going up to Horseshoe Lake (6270'), I asked them if that's where they went, and it was. They told me it was awesome up there and that the trail was not too bad. They also saw a herd of mountain goat.

That's all I needed to know what the plan would be for the next day and Chris agreed.

Stuart Lake/Stuart Range Mountains/Alpinglow
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Since Horseshoe Lake was only 1.5 miles and 1170' in elevation from our campsite, and because that was our only destination for day two, we allowed ourselves the rare luxury of sleeping in. Yay, more sleep!

Packing only our day-hiking gear (food, water, spare clothes, camera, etc.), we were off. At first, the trail was easy, mostly level following along the edge of a meadow.

Mt. Stuart/Meadow/From Horseshoe Lake Trail
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Then, it took a sharp right up a steep hill, following a creek. From here, the trail gained 1075' in .75 miles, with many downed logs and rocks to navigate around. At least there were no Bushes From Hell.

Horseshoe Lake Trail
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Once at the lake, it was a stark contrast to the steep, forested trail we were just on. It was a plateau-like alpine landscape with views of many peaks in the Stuart Range.

First View Of Horseshoe Lake
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We soon found a spot to relax and enjoy the view. Unfortunately, the spot we chose was populated by biting ants. Ouch! We quickly found another spot.

View From Above Horseshoe Lake
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View From Above Horseshoe Lake
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360 Video From Above Horseshoe Lake


During our search for the perfect spot, all over, we noticed mountain goat hair and evidence of where animals had bedded down.

Mountain Goat Hair
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Mountain Goat Beds
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So where were the goats? We soon found out. Without warning, four mountain goats suddenly appeared right next to us, less than ten feet away.

The Mountain Goats Make Their Appearance
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They Were Very Close
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They looked like a family: a mother, a baby and possibly two yearlings. They were not afraid of us. In fact, they seemed to be interested in us. I had read that mountain goats in the Enchantments are used to human presence and even seek out people. This is because they crave the salt we excrete in our urine, and even from our clothes, backpacks and hiking pole straps.

I thought of this as they moved towards our gear and clothing laying on the ground, eyeing it with interest. I had visions of the cartoons of goats eating everything in sight. We quickly gathered our belongings.

Image

The mountain goats soon became bored with us and wandered away, but not very far. Of course, Chris and I were not bored with them. We probably took over a hundred pictures and videos of them.

Another Mountain Goat Picture
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Video Of Mountain Goats


Eventually, we moved on to what we had planned, which was to explore the plateau. Although not large, it still demanded exploration. The effort was well worth it. The views were different from place to place. We even found the ultimate place to make camp, if we ever came back again.

Horseshoe Lake From The West End
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Stuart Lake/Mountaineer Creek Meadow From Edge Of Plateau
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360 Video At Edge Of Plateau


We ran into the same mountain goats again - or so we thought at first. Upon closer look, these three were larger, had black beards and male parts hanging in the back.

Male Mountain Goat
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They also had a different demeanor. One of them especially looked like he meant business. Knowing that a mountain goat gored a man to death last year in Olympic National Park, we gave these ones a wide berth.

Through with all the excitement, we headed back to camp.

It might be hard to see here, but this picture illustrates how the elevation immediately drops off at the outlet of Horseshoe Lake
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The next morning (day three), we were packed up and on the trail before 6 AM ready to head for home.

Morning Sun On Mt. Stuart
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We briefly contemplated going up Aasgard pass to check out the Enchantment Lakes Basin, but decided against it. That will have to wait for another trip.

Aasgard Pass
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Final notes:
-With horses banned from the Enchantments, it was nice to not have to be constantly dodging piles of horse droppings.
-While the area around Horseshoe Lake was great, I don't think the whole hassle of getting a permit was worth it. I wouldn't want to go back to the Enchantments unless I won a permit to the Core Enchantment Zone.
-Didn't see any rangers on the trails or at camp checking permits.
-Baby mountain goats are cute. I want one!

Link to all the picks on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/54959080@N ... 201831064/

Good hiking,
Brad
Last edited by Born2BBrad on August 22nd, 2012, 11:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
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mayhem
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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by mayhem » August 22nd, 2012, 9:29 pm

Dudes!!!
Great TR, but come on! No umbrella hat or pants??

Thanks for taking the videos, it makes it more real for me.
Shoe Shine Boy Has Left The Building!

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Bosterson
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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by Bosterson » August 23rd, 2012, 12:23 am

Born2BBrad wrote: They Were Very Close
Image
Brad, please make this your avatar. Pretty please?

Also, assuming they haven't changed things since they switched to the online permit lottery, something like 1/4 (5 out of 20) of the permits for the Core area are reserved for walk-ins. If you get a permit for another non-Core area (eg, Snow), you can "upgrade" to the Core if you score a walk-in for something like $10. Non-Core areas don't have a lottery, I don't think, and you can still get permits for them closer to summer. Anyway, this info is all c. 2009 when I was there, but we got 5 day permits for the Colchuck zone or something, and then showed up at 8am sharp the day of the trip and the rangers drew names from a hat for the 5 walk-in permits - our group was the first one drawn, so we got upgraded to the Core zone for our entire trip. Keep in mind it's walk-in permits for five people, not groups, so after our group of two and a group of three behind us, the walk-in permits were gone and everyone else was out of luck. Check on this info, but it's something to think about if you're considering going again - and the Core area is really awesome and worth it.
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Eric Peterson
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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by Eric Peterson » August 23rd, 2012, 6:09 am

Nice TR.

At least they allow day hikers to day hike the area with the simple self issue permit system.

I'm sorry but I'm a little put off with the tight restrictions and believe our National Forests
should be a little easier to access, but I guess that's what keeps the fragile area
so special! :)

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Chase
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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by Chase » August 23rd, 2012, 8:56 am

Excellent TR. Am I the only one amused by the name "Aasgard Pass"?

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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by cascadehiker » August 23rd, 2012, 8:58 am

Cool report Brad. 10 years ago my first backpacking trip was up Aasgard Pass (where I promptly puked from the exertion combined with dehydration - I bet the goats liked that) and exiting via Snow Lakes. I agree, this is one of the most beautiful areas in all of the Cascades. The whole permit system is a hassle, but otherwise each lake and tarn would be lined with tents every late summer and fall weekend. I have dayhiked to Stuart Lake also, but always wondered what was beyond. Awesome idea to go explore it! ;)
"Man who catch fly with chopstick accomplish anything" - Mr Miyagi

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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by BigBear » August 23rd, 2012, 11:59 am

Nice pictures of the lake and the locals.

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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by jakobfisher » August 23rd, 2012, 12:15 pm

Very cool report, this is a trip on my bucket list.....I was first inspired by this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sBnepbX ... plpp_video

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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by justpeachy » August 23rd, 2012, 12:24 pm

Looks gorgeous! I've been wanting to get up there for awhile, but the whole lottery thing means planning SO far in advance and it just hasn't worked out. I'm glad they have the lottery though or the place would be loved to death.

The scenery reminds me a lot of the Eagle Cap Wilderness, with the alpine environment, beautiful blue lakes, and granite mountains. (In fact, if the EC Wilderness were as close to an urban area as the Enchantments are to Seattle the FS would probably have to implement the same kind of lottery there.)

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Re: Enchantments/Stuart Lake/Mountain Goats: 8/20/12-8/22/12

Post by R11 » August 23rd, 2012, 1:47 pm

The permits are unfortunate but they are definitely a necessary evil. Between the the first time I went to the Enchantments back in 1990 and the last trip seven years ago the wear on the area has been pretty dramatic, even with the quota system in place. With the internet forum advertizing places like that get these days it would be completely trashed in no time.

I'm not so sure I agree with the idea that the banning of dogs has been much of a factor in the growing number of goats there though. Over the years I've watched their numbers steadily increase all over. They used to be kind of a novelty but now they seem to be everywhere. That initial trip to the Enchantments 22 years ago was the first time I had seen any up close in the wild though. A couple printer scans of 4x6 prints of that encounter:

My friend and his wife sitting still so as to not scare it off (sure don't have to worry about that these days with as urbanized as they've become)
First goat 2small.jpg
A highly flattering pic :oops: of me with my mouth full eating when the goat showed up.
First goat 1small.jpg
I had some of whatever it was I was eating in my hand that I naively thought I might get it to come take from me (unknowing at the time that it wasn't food it was looking for...).


ron

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