While at JRO, I cleared up some confusion (mostly mine, I suppose) about requirements for a Monument Pass versus a NWFP. Short story is, no need to hang a NWFP on the car, but you can get one adult wristband by showing it to them in the visitor's center. Everyone hiking out (or their pack) is supposed to be wearing a wristband.
Anyway, the place was unusually quiet for a fairly nice Saturday in late July! I'd left all sign of other people behind within a couple miles of the paved walkways. I don't think I ran into another soul until I was just about to the rock archway. And after that, only two or three other small groups all day long. I keep wondering, "Are these folks I talk to everyday [here]?" That button idea was a cool one. But, in the spirit of hoping those I cross paths with any of you out there, I might include a face shot below. Fair warning.
People wearing jeans and no pack seem to not make it past here.
I think the greatest hazard of the Blast Zone is that your camera batteries are almost certain to die up there. Bring spares! I took about 500 photos on this Saturday ramble. The 100 best (and/or most representative) are in a slideshow here.
Last year at this time, it was all penstemon and paintbrush. This year, not so much penstemon. Wetter July, maybe? But the lupine was certainly out. Quite a bit moreso, as you climbed higher.
Coldwater Peak had its head in the clouds most of the day, so far, with only occasional appearances.
It seems I also missed most of the Tent Caterpillar hatchings, as I only saw a few active tents. Most of them must've already morphed into whatever it is they become?
The trail seemed to want to get a little sketchy up around the arch. It was as though the backcountry didn't really want to admit anyone that didn't belong there. Here, it calls for a little scramble up over these rocks, against the cliff. Not so bad, for anyone paying attention.
Soon, Saint Helens Lake came into view. With a backdrop of those glorious Mount Margaret Backcountry mountains! Wow. I bet 10% of all my photos are some variation on this initial view. That pointy knob is called The Dome - more on that later.
The rock arch was definitely a scenic highlight. I've read reports that "this is all some will talk about" after coming down. Not sure I get that. I mean, yeah, it was very cool. But compared to what lie ahead? Hmmm, maybe not so much?
Coldwater Peak in background.
Shortly after, I came across this sign (looking the way I had come) which seems to imply that straying off-trail isn't subject to fine anymore?
<voice-over>Hikers needing to urinate are free to move about the backcountry.</voice-over>
Seemed that as I climbed, the clouds just kept building atop Coldwater. No matter, I'd come this far. And actually, when I got up there, the views were still pretty darn good. All except those of the other Cascade volcanoes, of course.
Took photos of scores of wildflowers on the way down. The one that really caught my attention was the remnants of Western Pasque flower, or Hippy on a Stick!
So I get back down to the main trail, and there's still lots of daylight left! Decided to meander over to, maybe past, The Dome to see if I can get a better look down at the hummocks in that northeast bay of Spirit Lake.
Must get around that beast!
The views of Saint Helens Lake are simply spectacular as I wander westward.
Around one corner, I ran into three guys practicing self-arrest on a (steeper than it looks here) snow field. I think I need one of those buttons, because I'm not always best at starting "Do I know you?" conversations in the field.
You guys hang out here?
Coldwater Peak in background. Three amigos on snowfield.
The Dome.
But perhaps more interesting were the hummocks-from-hell down in/near Spirit Lake, which were now visible.
A little after 5pm, I found myself on the east side of The Dome, and a slushy 45° snowfield was crossing the trail. It was a sign. Not one I was happy about, but I figured I was at least several hours away from the car, and still wanted to get down into the Pumice Plain. Took a close-up of Mount Margaret, and hope to get back there soon to come in from that side!
Return was uneventful, but still hazardous in that photos (plural, yeah) were required at nearly every turn. I hadn't seen that Saint Helens Lake was emptying into Spirit Lake on the way out, for example.
Most of the trail was snow free. This was the biggest patch that needed to be crossed. (Given I'd used the other as "a sign.")
Okay, I warned about this before! When I got back to the arch again, the three amigos were there and asked if I'd take their picture. Sure! Just do the same for me. Sure!
So, did I cross paths with any of you out there? There were two or three other groups on the summit trail.
I was boogying at this point, sorta doing that shuffle-jog thing down to the Truman Trail, and out onto the Pumice Plain. Had a map that showed where Spirit Lake Lodge used to be, and thought it'd be kinda cool to go say a quick Howdy to Harry. Had to respect that guy, crazy as he was.
Spirit Lake Lodge is about 300 feet below that dark hummock on the right.
As I began my climb back, Mount Adams finally graced me with a quick glimpse! Normally, it would've been a near-constant presence on nearly this entire route.
But the sun was setting on Johnston Ridge, and the clouds were now descending right along with me...
Final numbers are in the neighborhood of 19 miles and just a bit under 5000' EG.
http://gpsfly.org/gps_map.php?gps_id=1698&w=645&h=440
I'm actually starting to think that I could loop that entire lake. (Time for an intervention?)
Maybe, lacking buttons, we need some sort of "secret PH hand signal" to flash at strangers on the trail? Nice to make the connection! 
