5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (MSH)

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mileagemike25000
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5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (MSH)

Post by mileagemike25000 » May 20th, 2012, 6:55 am

It's time to start seeking out the higher elevations where the snow has melted or has become patchy. We seem to have bad luck with completing hikes in the Mt. St. Helens blast zone so we set out to try again on the day after the eruption anniversary. The anniversary of the eruption is kind of a special day as my wife and I graduated from college on May 18, 1980! We had to quickly work with AAA to change our driving plans from Chicago to the southern route as I accepted a job in Beaverton!

We decided to try out the Hummocks Loop Trail #229 and then intersect the Boundary Trail #1 and hike that to the Johnston Ridge Observatory and beyond. The Hummocks Loop Trail starts from a large parking lot that is a couple of blocks past the Coldwater Lake exit, but whose exit is on the right of Hwy 504. You really can't miss the large sign that indicates the trail location! There were plenty of cars in the parking lot as a ranger was giving a talk to a large group for the loop hike. We started the Hummocks Loop trail in the clockwise direction so that we could finish it on the way back from the observatory.
1 Hummocks Trail #229_(1).JPG
We quickly passed the large group taking the guided tour and in about 1/2mile reached the intersection with Boundary Trail #1.
2 Boundary Trail #1 Intersection with Hummocks Trail_(1).JPG
Turning left we started up Boundary Trail #1. The first portion of this trail is rather flat and we noticed that ALL :( the deciduous trees were infested with what looked to me like silk worms!
3 Silk worms infesting deciduous trees_(1).JPG
And now on to the more upbeat part of this hike. I typically note, on my GPS, locations where there is a good view of something interesting. I couldn't do this on the hike as the entire trail was a visual feast! :) There was nothing but constant views of Mt. St. Helens, the surrounding Mts. and the Toutle River! :o
4 Mt St Helens from Boundary Trail #1_(1).JPG
5 View of Mts west of Mt St Helens from Boundary Trail_(1).JPG
And we came to a bend in the trail that gave us a glimpse of Coldwater Lake!
6 Coldwater Lake from Boundary Trail_(1).JPG
Getting closer to the Observatory the views only got better as we climbed in altitude! The trail was a gentle climb during most of the 4.5 miles. The only impediment was that the trail was mostly loose scree like material and we experienced the occasional foot slips. There were only a couple of locations where you could call it exposure, but it wasn't bad and they were short.
7 Getting Closer to Johnston Observatory_(1).JPG
The day was warm but there was the occasional cool wind that kept us from overheating. At times it felt like it might be in the 40's, but that's a great temperature to hike in. There were only a couple of patches of snow, and not on the trail, during most of the hike to the Observatory. However, just before the Observatory we hit our first significant patch of snow at about 4200ft!
8 Snow field just before observatory_(1).JPG
The snow was very firm and easy to walk on. The parking lot at the Johnston Observatory also had a few big piles but was mostly clear. There were many cars in the parking lot but it was nowhere near full. There was still too many people for my liking and we really stood out with our hiking equipment! :?
9 Crowded observatory_(1).JPG
And a last breathtaking view of Mt. St. Helens from the Observatory lookout!
10 Great view of Mt St Helens_(1).JPG
We asked a forest service employee about the status of the Boundary Trail #1 into the Mt. Margaret Backcountry. She indicated it was closed due to dangerous conditions ! :( We needed to check this out for ourselves so we continued until a sign and posts proved this to be true. :(
11 Backcounty trails closed_(1).JPG
I saw Sean Thomas' TR and it appears there is access to Mt. Margaret Backcountry from the Coldwater Lakes Trails, but evidently not from the Johnston Observatory location. When looking from above I didn't see very dangerous conditions (in the near distance), or much snow, but I'm sure that they need be concerned since most of the visitors aren't equipped for any backcountry travel and don't want the liability!
Closed trails past Johnston Observatory_(1).JPG
We respected the closure and turned around to complete the Hummocks Trail Loop.

After 4.5 miles back down we again met up with the Hummocks Loop Trail and went to the left at the intersection. The Hummocks trail is a 2.5 mile loop that contains a large diversity of micro eco-systems. There are hills of ash/rock that have small lakes/ponds dispersed between these mounds (sorry if the description is lacking). There is also a great viewpoint that takes you fairly close to the Toutle River.

Here is a small pond with a misplace wood bridge/walkway? Maybe it's useful late in the summer. :lol:
13 Hummocks trail pond and misplaced bridge_(1).JPG
And there are a few small streams that feed some of the ponds and swamps.
14 Hummocks Trail micro ecosystem_(1).JPG
I would very highly recommend this short loop for a family hike, and we saw several on the trail. However, please be AWARE that there is a very short section(~20-40ft) of the hike where a scree like steep (but not sheer) dropoff exists! You can stay away from the edge as the trail is very wide here, but please watch your kids closely and warn them of the danger! I didn't mark the location on a map but it will be obvious when you get there! Also be aware that for very young childen there is a lot of water and a few railless wood bridges over small streams, so exercise caution!

The length of both trails was 10.9 miles and the elevation gain about 1800ft. It was a great day and a successful hike!
15 Hummock Trail & Boundary Trail #1 to Johnston Observatory.JPG

sasquatch22
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by sasquatch22 » May 22nd, 2012, 1:56 am

Great trip report as always, mileagemike.
Looks like there's still a bit of snow in the higher elevations.
From what I understand, there was a washout or a slide along the Boundary Trail at the Devil's Elbow. Not sure if it's the west-facing or east-facing side of the Elbow, or when it'll be repaired.

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Peder
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by Peder » May 22nd, 2012, 10:20 am

sasquatch22 wrote:From what I understand, there was a washout or a slide along the Boundary Trail at the Devil's Elbow. Not sure if it's the west-facing or east-facing side of the Elbow, or when it'll be repaired.
Hopefully it will be repaired by the time the snow melts; so people can hike from the Johnston Ridge Observatory to Harry's Ridge and Coldwater Peak. The Forest Service says:
05/14/2012: snow covered. Trail closed east at Devils Elbow from JRO due to washouts.
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Stevefromdodge
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by Stevefromdodge » May 22nd, 2012, 12:29 pm

The Devil's Elbow is pretty sketchy anyway. As cool as that section is, maybe the trail should be rerouted north of that slope.

Seems like building a trail in that terrain is as simple as putting up flagging. :)

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Peder
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by Peder » May 22nd, 2012, 1:02 pm

Stevefromdodge wrote:Seems like building a trail in that terrain is as simple as putting up flagging. :)
True Steve! Just remember that "Visitors must stay away from certain areas and not venture off trails; a minimum $100 fine, stringently enforced, awaits those who travel off-trail." :(

A reroute to the north avoiding the traverse of the steep slopes would make a lot of sense. Many (non-)hikers are scared by the exposure on the trail to the Devil's Elbow. On the other hand, the view from the existing trail is superb. My kids on the trail in question:
DSC01360.jpg
July 2010 on the way to Harry's Ridge
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mileagemike25000
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by mileagemike25000 » May 22nd, 2012, 5:57 pm

Great discussion! However, my Garmin 24k topo maps doesn't label the Devil's Elbow? It would appear that this location is where I have marked on my map? If so, this would be an amazing view! :)
Devils Elbow maybe..JPG
Interestingly enough the sign and forest service employee didn't mention why the closure was in effect. I'm glad that peder was able to find the info from the forest service!

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Peder
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by Peder » May 22nd, 2012, 6:37 pm

Mike - The Devil's Elbow was news to me too! You are (as per my understanding) correct about the location of the Devil's Elbow and the view is great from there. If you have never done Coldwater Peak, it is warmly recommended once the snow is gone (presumably sometime in July). There is a nasty $8 per head tariff if you do not have a National Park pass. :(

It was "sasquatch22" who pointed out the problem. I just wondered about the barriers in one of your pictures and thought: "The Eruption Trail is closed, so one must start on the Boundary Trail from the far end of the parking lot..." It is useful to know that the trail is closed for now.
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mileagemike25000
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by mileagemike25000 » May 22nd, 2012, 7:18 pm

Peder - I'll have to make it out to Devil's Elbow and Coldwater Peak when they open. Thanks for the recommendation! I understood there was a backcountry pass fee requirement but didn't know that a National Park pass would suffice? I'll have to go to Mt. Rainier before going to MSH backcountry to make maximum use of the pass. :)

Sasquatch22 - I'm very sorry about not giving you credit for originally noting the Boundary Trail washout. It's been a really, really long work day! :( Also, thanks for the feedback on the TR! :)

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Peder
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by Peder » May 22nd, 2012, 8:58 pm

mileagemike25000 wrote:I understood there was a backcountry pass fee requirement but didn't know that a National Park pass would suffice? )
The "America the Beautiful" (?) pass get you in for free. If you present the pass at the visitor center, you will get up to 5 pink armbands free of charge (=one car load of people). I always get there before they open (10.00 am?), so I just hike and expect to present my NP pass if requested.

If you should park further down and have to leave your pass in the car, I always take a photographic picture of the pass before I start hiking. I have passed rangers in this situation (i.e. by the Johnston Ridge Observatory without the obligatory pink armband), but they have never stopped me. So I have never had to "prove" that I was legal...

The hikes to Coldwater Peak and Mt Margaret are some of the very best I know in the Pacific NW.
Some people are really fit at eighty; thankfully I still have many years to get into shape…

sasquatch22
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Re: 5/19/12 Hummocks Loop & Boundary Trl #1 to Observatory (

Post by sasquatch22 » May 23rd, 2012, 2:18 am

mileagemike25000 wrote:Sasquatch22 - I'm very sorry about not giving you credit for originally noting the Boundary Trail washout. It's been a really, really long work day! :( Also, thanks for the feedback on the TR! :)
Hey, I'm cool. It's all good. 8-) And Peder is right - sometime this summer or fall you should make an effort to hike to the summit of Coldwater Peak.

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